Kalkan Turkey Forum - EnjoyKalkan.com
Kalkan Discussion => Holiday Reports and Reviews => Topic started by: kalkan4eva on June 11, 2017, 06:35:13 AM
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"I want to stand with you on a mountain, I want to bathe with you in the sea. I want to live like this forever, until the sky falls down on me."
Says it all really...by the way, did you sing that first bit?
We left rainy Manchester at 06.30 yesterday and arrived in gorgeous sunny Kalkan at 15.00, probably the fastest we've ever done this journey. Our Monarch flight landed a full 40 mins ahead of schedule and we breezed through passport control and baggage collection (via the duty few shop in Dalaman, naturally....)
Our Enes driver was waiting and I'd swear he was 12 years old...almost weighed the same as my case. I buckled up in the car thinking we'd be in for a hairy ride with a boy racer, but we never once exceeded the speed limit on our smooth transfer. Rounding the corner on the top of the new road there she was.....sigh. In true technicolor glory...beautiful Kalkan.
Its the second year we've opted for these flights and I never want to arrive in the middle of the night again....
It felt strange to pass our usual spot and head up Kalamar Road, we were craning our necks looking over towards the place that would eventually be our home in Kalkan for the next few weeks.
We were greeted very warmly by the folks at Happy Hotel and shown quickly to our room which has magnificent views over Kalamar Bay....wow! After dropping our cases, we headed straight for the pool but got chatting in the bar area to some lovely people....as you do. The clock ticked around to 5pm, so I retired to a sunbed in front of the glass balustrade...let like I was sunbathing on a ledge overlooking the bay...gorgeous. Within seconds I was snoring....our new friends said they hadn't heard me, but they were just being polite.
Of course the best laid plans of not unpacking our cases and using what we had carefully put in our hand luggage and on the top of bags, went to pot when I couldnt find a hairbrush and BH decided to wear something else. I dont even want to think about repacking them tomorrow.
Showered and changed we headed for the bar for an aperitif. The new barman is Onur and he has moved his family to Kalkan from Istanbul....because of terrorism, he said. I want us to live somewhere safe. Where is safe..? Feels like it is here, thats for sure. Turns out Onur is a horse trainer and has won a few races...he showed us photos of him winning a cup a couple of years back. Flat racing....who knew? They are building a new track in Antalya so he may return to his chosen career one day.
Dinner was at Yelken, a short stroll away...a very different first night for us. How lovely is this place? BH opted for the Mexican Steak Burger and I chose Beef medallions...absolutely delicious. With ice cream, an Irish coffee, 3 beers and a gin this feast came to 190tl. How is that possible?
A stroll back to Happy Hotel, a night cap and a chat with more lovely people.
The Happy Hotel is just what the doctor ordered and does what it says on the tin.
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And they're off..........! Enjoy!
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Great first report! We look straight across to the Happy Hotel (our apt is in the Yelken complex) and I've often wondered what it's like - sounds lovely. Have a great day!
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There you are., i've been waiting for you to get started......lovely first report....19 sleeps for me!
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'I love you more with every breath truly madly deeply dooooo' ... Of course I'm singing along and what a perfect song to describe kalkan. I'm right there with you in my imagination K4E! How we love the Kalmar area and the yelken bistro. Its usually our local!
Thanks for taking the time to post and of course I'm chomping at the bit, like onur's horse, for more already. ;D
Have a fabulous holiday both of you and gfet exercising those calf muscles around kalamar! ;)
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Really good to have a holiday report K4E.......We'll be there next Monday......can't come soon enough.
Keith can..........possibly meet up with K4E........In Kalkan?
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OH K4E what a lovely treat to read your post, sounds like paradise, pardon the pun!! Have an amazing time and we look forward to your next update, and Keith yours too very shortly! ;) ;).
J&B
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Its another beautiful day in Kalkan.
The sun has not long appeared on the beds near the pool at Happy Hotel and there isnt a cloud in the sky. Have we only been here a day and a half..? I've already slipped into Kalkan mode, already downshifted several gears into a relaxed state with the only stress being where to eat tonight.
Well, there may be a bit of stress packing up later today but we are only going up the road and I'll be glad to be able to unpack properly. Right now, my case looks like an explosion in a dress factory...my careful packing skills destroyed in a moment of panic. Days of precision ironing every frill and seam now seems like a complete waste of time. I'm hoping when I can hang everything up, the creases will drop out naturally.....I'm hoping.
We've loved our little Hotel experience, we loved the Happy Hotel. Its not the most modern or sophisticated that Kalkan has to offer but its clean, the staff are wonderful and the view...well those views are spectacular. We promised ourselves that we wouldnt pass Lizo Pension whilst we are staying in Kalamar and we havent.
Yesterday, after a decent breakfast served over looking Kalamar Bay we went for a walk. Naturally we couldnt go far, but up and down the back streets of Kalamar and down to Kulube and Kalamar Beach Club then back up that tasking hill was enough for our first day. Kalamar Beach Club was empty...but it was only early, we hoped people would be occupying the sunbeds later in the day.
We spent the rest of the day by the pool, making new Kalkan friends and enjoying a lovely lunch here...maybe a couple of glasses of Angora were consumed in the process. The sun shone all day and the factor 30 did its job. Its a lovely long pool so I swam a few lengths to try and undo the angora in the afternoon damage.
In the evening as the sun set over the hill, we had a few aperitifs and a chat with fellow guests then headed off to Cosmopolitan...right on the edge of our self imposed exclusion zone. What a view from here of the town with its twinkling lights and on the plus side, the margaritas were excellent.
Onto The Brothers for our evening meal. A Chefs Chilli Chicken and Jumbo Prawn Platter were our choices whilst we chatted to yet more lovely people...everyone in Kalkan is so nice! Brian from Bury told us the food in The Brothers was lovely but the portions are small and he was right on both counts...but we'd had a fairly decent size late lunch so it was just enough for us. Another couple of beers here and a margarita with our food and the bill was 147tl. Another place we wouldnt have got to if we hadn't been staying in Kalamar..loved it!
We lost our way a bit after turning left at Cafe Vita and ended up back at Yelken...it didn't matter in the slightest. Extra steps mean cocktail points...
Back at Happy Hotel, Onur made a couple of Irish Coffees for our night cap which were delicious....BH's head hit the pillow and he was instantly asleep, the caffeine Im not used to ensured I was awake long enough to finish my first book...The Accident by CL Taylor, a really good read.
Another day awaits us in paradise..."a new beginning, a reason for living, a deeper meaning yeah"
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Oh wow! you have certainly brightened up my Monday morning K4E, fab fab fab!! You are certainly packing a lot into your first couple of days, keep up the steps!! :D :D :D
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Oh I do love a holiday report. You're certainly packing it in......and the walking has started, any sign of Kankles yet? Hope not!
I'll be seriously impressed if you manage to gang all those dresses up! :laugh:
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Two whole days without a walk!
This means the calories consumed versus calories expended has hit the danger zone. On Monday we checked out of Happy Hotel and the lovely staff stood on the step and waved us off like family....maybe we are! I loved our little Kalamar adventure; I loved the Happy Hotel where people return year and after year and know each other really well...Its like Hotel Solana in the tv series Benidorm for the middle classes, remarked one of our new friends!
We arrived at our new rental choice and the maid was still cleaning so we unpacked around her...shocked to look out of the window and see our old place completely refurbished and newly painted....well I never. No longer on the rental market as the new owner lives there most of the summer. We got chatting on adjoining roof terraces and he invited us round to see "what he'd done to the place". We could not believe our eyes, it was completely different and in a way we were glad as it would have been quite sad to see it empty and unloved.
Our 5 minute walk into the old town on that first night took us half an hour as we stopped and chatted to friendly familiar faces. BL and Mrs Lizard already here a week and settled into a new spot in their favourite bar. Its always good to see where the waiters and greeters have moved onto and we make our promises to book a table.
Huge hugs from the Moonlight boys and kisses for BH...yes really! Catching up here with some lovely old friends who have already been in Kalkan for 4 weeks with a few more ahead of them...the joys of retiring! BH had a bit of a dodgy tum so we stopped at the Soup Kitchen for two chicken soups and made our first night in town an early one.
Yesterday, I was up with the lark but BH wasnt feeling too good so we gave walking a miss. I did many many laps of the pool, but it doesn't give you quite as many cocktail points... By late afternoon he was feeling better so we had a couple of pre-dinner drinks chez nous and headed into town, bumping into some of our fellow Happy Hotelers on the way. One drink became...well more than one, and we hadn't made plans for dinner. I had visions of rolling back into the Soup Kitchen at midnight, so we exited stage right and headed to Cinar.
Two chicken dishes - one with pesto one with spices, a bottle of angora and the company of the lovely white cat that sits up o the roof - 147tl. Back at the apartment we sat on the roof terrace with metaxa and planned our days ahead.
This morning we walked over to Komurluk via the harbour, calling in to see Osman and Adem and confirm our booking with them for next week. After passing the beach on the footpath over to Komurluk there were maybe 6 or 7 tents formed into a campsite...they looked so out of place and I couldnt help wonder who might be in them. Its a bit of a hike up the hill and down to Palm Beach and I stop regularly and point to nothing in particular just to catch my breath. We strolled down and wandered around the abandoned beach club...who knows what will happen here in the future but right now in its unfinished state its like a blot on the landscape. Last year there was a swimming pool and this has now been filled in, so there must have been some work carried out over the close season. There doesnt appear to have been much building work in Komurluk itself for the first time in many a year...maybe its finally slowing down.
It was a bit late in the day, but staying in Kalamar then BH's upset tum meant we only got round to our Turkish Baths today. Atlantis has had a bit of a make-over but the Haman area remains the same - in case you are wondering. Fabulous as ever, one of the best ways to spend an hour whilst you're here.
Tonight we are planning to go down to the harbour, maybe eat in Seaport. All the new units have been leased now, so we'll take our time and see what they have to offer.
Can you believe we've been here 5 days already...?
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Great report! It's a good job you've got so many days left! When i've been there 5 days i'll be thinking about packing! Maybe cross paths in a couple of weeks.
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Wow 5 days! How fast has that gone? :o
I think I'd like it at the happy hotel, sounds like a fun place. We've only experienced the pirat before but our livers were protesting after a few days. Every night was party night. ;D
Say hello to the Lizards from us if you cross paths again and hope you've managed to unpack now. Its awful living out of suitcases. Its actually been nice here today for a change and we managed a BBQ tonight, sat out until 9.30pm, chatting about kalkan and our Summer plans. Can't wait. :) hope BH is feeling better and look forward to your next installment. :)
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K4E what a great time your having and certainly sounds like your in the holiday mode already in your first 5 days! Hope BH has fully recovered now. Looking forward to your next instalment. :D
J&B
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Sounds as if you're having fun. Don't worry about not walking, I haven't been doing any either and you'd be proud of my kankles.....see Facebook messages! ;) :laugh:
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Where did that week go...?
If only time went slowly here, it would be perfect. Even when you're doing absolutely nothing the time flies and suddenly its the 5 o'clock call to prayer which signals the start of Cocktail Hour for us.
On Wednesday we had planned to go to the Harbour to eat, we wandered down and had a cocktail in Jimmys and walked along to see Deniz in Seaport...only Deniz isnt there anymore. He sold up and left, the greeter told us. Where is he now, we asked..? Nowhere. Oh.
We meandered up to Moonlight, our default position in Kalkan, and chatted with our Happy Hotelers who are catching the courtesy bus each night now. We'd already decided to eat in Coriander at this point and they were holding a table for us so we tackled the climb in double quick time, pausing very briefly to say hello to BL and Mrs lizard and meet Alison H and her other half - always lovely to meet another EKer, albeit briefly.
At Coriander, Sakir showed us to our table overlooking Kalkan, twinkling beautiful in the distance. Chicken Fajitas and Pepper Steak, 2 beers, 2 glasses of house wine, a baileys and a brandy 194tl...! Lovely friendly place and great food.
No walk on Thursday of course as its Market Day, so just a short trek up. First stop, our favourite watch lady....just for a battery. Our routine market buys, those lovely sesame coated peanuts, green tea, spices, fruit and veg....oh and the obligatory blag DVD's. The banter is legendary and it wouldnt do to be sensitive..."hey baldy", they shout to BH "we have big sizes" ;D ;D
On the way out we stop for my watch, all cleaned with a new seal and battery 20tl. "You've changed your hair colour" she says...can you really believe that? well yes I'm embracing the grey, I tell her...but I'm astonished she remembers at all.
We decide to walk into the old town and order some water for the cooler, beers and wine to be delivered from the nearest thing Kalkan has to an off licence. Walking through Kalkan in the day, it looks so beautiful against the turquoise sea. We stopped at Ko.Co, new this year from Korsan, in the space occupied by Black and Gold last year. The homemade lemonade with mint was delicious and they brought some ice cream over "on the house" because its hot and nice to see you back..how lovely! Made on the premises this ice cream was gorgeous...I will be back!
We had planned to see Ibo at Kaptan so today was as good a day as any. Those who are friends with him or follow him on social media will be aware of his angry posts over the past few weeks, including a film of him stomping over his stock of reading sunglasses. A change in the law means he can no longer sell them and he had a week to sell his stock so he chose to destroy, very publically, all those he had left. We bought from him, we always do...although I have more sunglasses than its possible to wear in my lifetime. He will be an opiticians next year...they wont kill me!
On Thursday evening we ate with our dear friends in Gusto. I had stuffed sea bass and BH had fajitas...again! Our friends had sea bass too, with pre-dinner drinks, our bill was 100tl each...who said the harbour is expensive?
Yesterday we had planned a quiet day - a long walk up to the new road and over the bridge to Kiziltas, a brunch of menemen and a lazy day by the pool.
We needed a couple of peppers for the menemen so I volunteered to go over to the greengrocer...taking my time, calling into the Deli first, then extended my trip to Kipa...as you do. Coming up from the roundabout I could see BH, who is universally known as the brownest man in Kalkan, looking distinctly pale...and a mix of angry and relieved to see me - like a parent who has lost a child.
He ushered me quickly back to HanInn whilst around me police with guns were running..in our direction. To say I was alarmed, is an understatement!
Uniformed officials and plain clothes officers and police...all with their weapons drawn running around HanInn was a sight I thought I'd never see. What was it? No-one knew, we were told to stay indoors and lock the doors, which BH ignored to run off and find me..he didnt know what had happened or if I was somehow involved given, I'd only gone for a couple of peppers some 50 minutes earlier and not returned.
After 45 minutes they stopped searching the grounds and one by one the cars left. Mehmet our pool guy couldnt tell us what happened as his English isnt good and our Turkish even worse.
No-one came back and told us when the coast was clear, we just assumed after a couple of hours the pool would be safe for a swim...it was.
Life got back to normal very quickly, a couple of drinks at Cocktail Hour followed by one with BL and Mrs Lizard in their ususal spot, looking relaxed and Kalkanised..coming back, I ask? Of course he replied. We agreed the armed police and Jendarma is actually reassuring in this climate.
Depending on who we spoke to, between one and five (insert a number of your choosing..) burglars had been chased from anywhere between Ortaalan, Kiziltas, Akbel...again you choose. One was definitely in custody but the others (any number between 1 and 4) were still at large. They certainly take theft very seriously here....! If youve been a victim of recent break-ins you can be assured the authorities are not letting it go lightly..at all!
It may have wrong footed us for an hour or two when we weren't sure who they were looking for and in light of the world we live in today, if indeed it was terrorism. Witnessing this reaction to burglars makes you feel that they would be ready to act against anything more serious.
Nothing to see here...move along! Well there's plenty to see actually and its rather beautiful.
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Well that was definitely a blog worth waiting for. Oh my word, how scary for you and BH! Good to see that whatever the problem was, it was taken very seriously and the miscreants hopefully were found and dealt with appropriately. :o
I can't believe the days are rushing by so quickly. Good for us of course but not for you and the brownest man in Kalkan. I think I'm the reddest Nurse in Nelson today after our glorious weekend of wall to wall sunshine which certainly makes a change here. ;D
How a laughed at the "hey baldy" comment. My OH gets called Baba all the time which he was fine with until he realised what it meant. He certainly was not happy with being a father figure to 30 odd year old blokes when he was in his early 40's. Now he just takes it as a compliment. ;D
I'm truly loving your reports K4E. A* for effort and content. Go to the top of the class. :-*
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Yes K4E, you certainly are the Star pupil with your reports.
How frightening for you, imagine you must have been very alarmed! Thank goodness it was all sorted soon enough though.
Lovely to read you have met up with Mr & Mrs BL! always nice to meet up with EKers isn't it. The mint lemonade and icecream at the former Black and Gold venue sounds very nice, will have to sample some I am thinking. Have promised ourselves a trip to Old Town Café this year too, as want to sample the cakes as have heard fab reports about them too!
The heat here today is unbearable today, but having to be at work is not very appealing I am afraid, whereas I imagine the unbearable heat in Paradise is very appealing, especially as Cocktail hour is not far away now for you!!! Lizzie hope you are not melting too much, but won't be long now for us either! :D :D :D :D :D :D
J&B
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Well hello there, Kalkankles....I've been expecting you! What took you so long?
Woke up this morning and there they were at the end of the bed where my slim ankles used to be. My calf pain started yesterday...despite some serious hill climbing for much of the time we've been here....and I knew they wouldnt be far behind. Now, I know tonight when I'm getting ready to go out, my feet will resemble two pieces of pork, stringed and oven ready! But hey, it wouldnt be Kalkan if my feet werent spilling out of my sandals...
On Saturday afternoon we had some lovely new friends we met at the Happy Hotel over for a BBQ which carried on well into the night and way too much alcohol was consumed. They are new to Kalkan, although not new to Turkey and already, they are planning to return next year...another couple falling under the spell of Kalkan. Its a joy to behold!
Sunday's walk should have been a bit subdued as we were a little delicate, shall we say, after the excesses of the previous day! But, no, we went for it! Down to the Med Apartments and along in front of the Likya Estate - love these villas here - making mental notes of the names so I can look them up later and gasp at their rental prices. We headed up to the Regency Hotel, down in front of Korsan Suites and up the track that takes you to the top of the hill between Kalkan and Kalamar. This is a mean mother of a hill but you are rewarded with amazing views over Kalkan and beyond. We trekked ever higher to see if there'd been any progress on the villas Halit had shown us plans for last year. As with the hotel in Kalamar, very little had changed since last year...you still cant see Kalamar from the top and the plots are still pegged out. I'm remain saddened by the loss of green space but I suspect if these villas ever get built their views would be spectacular. Building work really does seem to have come to a halt finally...from the top we could see the unfinished beach club and it just seemed ironic.
On Sunday night we ate in Alternatif...we had steaks, a cocktail, a few beers, wine, ice cream and an Irish coffee...270tl! We had a chat with Mustafa who tells us he is running for Mayor in 2019 and he delivered two baileys on the house. He'll go far that man!
We'd decided to go to Patara yesterday and booked Erzcan, our taxi driver friend, the night before. There's as a bit of a breeze when we left Kalkan but obviously that felt like a force nine gale on the beach....in the UK it would have been given one of those ridiculous names.
Two beds and parasol please...erm no parasols today, said the man with no front teeth. Too dangerous and you might not stay anyway the wind is bad today..very bad! Ok two beds it is...only us and one other foolhardy couple on the beach...and I'm grateful they were far away as we wrestled with the cushions and towels for the beds as I'm sure we would have been their entertainment. Twenty minutes later we collapsed on the beds, laughing so hard we were crying and afraid to move in case our efforts to anchor everything came undone and ended up in the sea...which was red flagged today.
The thing is when you get to Patara, you're pretty much trapped. You either waste your 130tl by asking the taxi to come back for you straight away, you wait for the next bus or, like us, you brazen it out on the beach, digging in with Dunkirk spirit. We dug in. The flag changed from red to yellow and red....think that means be careful, more people arrived, a few defied the no parasol rule but the wind did not let up. All day.
We headed over to the ruins at 4pm and as you would expect, it was beautiful up there, hardly a breeze...couldn't believe we were even in the same place.
Last night we ate in, BH made us a curry and it was gorgeous. We had planned to go to Fethiye today on the bus, but neither of us had the energy for the early bus and we promised ourselves we'd go next week...eek, that will be our last week.
Thing is, everything we need is right here....
"I'll be your hope, I'll be your love, Be everything that you need...."
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Another really enjoyable read K4E. We arrived yesterday afternoon and I have to admit that the strong winds came as a blessed relief after the exceptionally hot weather that we had been experiencing in the UK. We woke early to take in the glorious views across the harbour and have just enjoyed our first bit of sunbathing around the pool. Already totally relaxed.
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K4E another fab report, :D :D :D we too have experienced very windy days at Patara, but we love it too! Last year it was so so hot, we left after an hour, but fortunately we had a car hire and not a taxi, so made a quick exit I remember!
J&B
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Just catching up with all your eventful news! That hill at the side of the Korsan Suites was our early morning walk when we stayed their last year, such beautiful views!
I love the way the people in the market basically shout out insults but still everyone finds it funny. A few years ago my OH decided to buy a pair of swim shorts......while deciding on size the stall holder just made a grab for him and shouted "skinny bollocks!" ;D ;D
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So enjoying your reports - as always. Thank you for sharing I can't wait until we return.
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;D ;D ;D ;D Babs!!
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Whisper it ever so softly....more than halfway through our holiday :'(
On Tuesday after deciding the bus journey to Fethiye felt too arduous, we settled on a walk over to Patara Prince. In all the years we've been coming to Kalkan, we've never been here. We've certainly passed it on numerous occasions when out walking or on a boat but never been in for a look around. Tuesday was the day that changed.
Now, I have to say we've often thought about renting here but in the end, I just wasn't sure about the place and passed it over for somewhere else....having wandered around it and found it utterly charming, it's something I would now consider. I thought it would be twee, but in fact its not, its lovely. Although I'm curious as to why the roof terraces of so many properties have been turned into gardens...gardens with no apparent access or facilities...curious!
In the afternoon, I toook myself off to Jasmine on Kalamar Road for a pedicure. The puffiness means they are much more visisble and therefore in need of some TLC. Ladies, this is the best £10 you will spend in Kalkan. After a hour of intense work, I can look at my feet, albeit chubby feeet, with a sense of pride.
Eyebrows? Said Betul. Do they need doing, really? I asked. Yes was her unequivocal response...followed swiftly by "chair". At this point said chair was akin to a dentists chair, given that I've never had my eyebrows done professionally and these Dennis Healeys have rarely seen a set of tweezers in my 50 plus years, save for removing the odd white hair that seems determined to go its own way. I immediately felt the downy hairs dropping onto my cheeks as she got to work...there seemed rather a lot of them. In less than 5 minutes my pain was over and I looked in the mirror at my newly shaped brows...they looked fantastic. What was less fantastic was the white skin that was now very apparent where the hair had been removed, forming a perfect border...a highlight if you will! I'm only grateful I dont sport a lady moustache, or that would have met a similar end and given me the concealer headache from hell.
Im sure it'll blend in eventually was BH's helpful comment as he suppressed a snigger!
On Tuesday night we ate in Mousakka. The key to this restaurants success is Mehmet's dedication to his business, overseeing everything, even taking the orders himself. Mehmet from the old Sofra restaurant is here now too and with "little Mehmet" (who is indeed a lot smaller this year...) still leading the floor, if you shout Mehmet, its pot luck who turns up at your table. Two Summer Steaks, beer, wine, a cocktail and ice cream 240tl. Fabulous and our favourite meal of this trip so far!
Today we went out on Yildiz 2....what can I say about this wonderful family that hasn't been said? All of them are doing Ramazan, but that doesn't stop them looking after everyone on the boat and preparing fabulous food. For the first time ever, we continued passed Kaputas and around the islands here....one of which was a mass of starlings chatttering to each other whilst undertaking their mesmerising flight patterns. I missed my mud bath but visiting new coves certainly made up for that. Lovely people, lovely day.
From the boat we headed to Botanik to see Nam...two beers and two Magaritas later it was 7.30pm and we were sat in our swimwear...modestly covered, naturally...whilst freshly showered and dressed people began arriving for their pre-dinner drinks. I caught sight of myself in the mirror behind the bar and knew immediately it was time to head home for a simple supper of egg and chips.
I absolutely love days like these....
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I do hope the eyebrow situation sorts itself soon.....plenty of sun cream or your white stripes will turn red......now isn't the red panda in danger of extinction? ;D
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K4E, what a lovely read this morning, thank you, a pedicure, eyebrows, Moussaka and Yildez 2, can it get any better! I don't think so, sounds like my perfect holiday! The sun will soon tan those white bits where the eyebrows have disappeared don't worry! I caved in yesterday, after reading EK this week, have now pre-booked 4 boat trips after my promise this year to wait until we get there! ;D ;D ;D Enjoy your weekend and the rest of your holiday, and thank you for taking the time to post. :D :D
J&B
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Another really captivating read K4E. Obviously I'm not into pedicures and eyebrow treatments but I can relate to the white bits that are left after having a trim. It made me think that I should get my hair cut before I get much further into my holiday. We did actually venture out yesterday and I'll share my story in a little while.
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K4E..i don't seem to remember your eyebrows being bushy!!..the time to worry is when someone hits you on the head with a rolled up newspaper thinking a Tarantula is walking across your forehead ;D :-*
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Another fabulous read to brighten up a dull Saturday morning. :)
What a brilliant sounding day you had with the yildiz crew. They really know how to do a boat trip!
I hope someone will enlighten us re the gardens on patara prince rooftops as it's got me curious too. ???
I adore a summer steak and have only seen them on the menu at mussaka and Doy Doy and both in my experience, equally as good as each other. I can't wait to get my chops around one now!
Love the sound of your pampering session. I'm sure the stripes will have blended in soon. Until then at least you've got natural highlighter at considerably less money than it costs for touche éclat and with added bonus of a pedicure too! ;D
Have another wonderful day today. Loving your reports. :-*
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We have a villa in Patara Prince and can enlighten on the roof gardens. The architect who designed it was very mindful of the views. Virtually all the villas have outstanding views of the bay and the superb landscaping softens the impact of the buildings.The roof gardens were the same, put there to make the outlook better, rather than looking at the roof of neighbouring properties. Part of the complex is based on the Romans, the Agora by the hotel. The arches throughout the complex are based on The Lycian dynasty, and the arch by the adult pool is an exact replica of the ruins at Patara Beach.
The architect was heavily into landscaping and when you consider all he started with was a bare Rocky hillside the outcome is truly stunning. It was I think his life's work.
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The days are evaporating faster than an Efes on a hot day...and boy is it hot!
We've not done anything exciting these last few days except adopt a horizontal position on a sunbed or two. The thing is I had some major surgery at the end of February and only went back to work a week or so before we came away here, so it feels like an extension of my recuperation or a good excuse to do naff all! It means we havent done as much as we usually do and so theres less to say.
On the upside, I no longer look six months pregnant - not a good look for a woman in her mid-fifties to be fair. On the downside my bikini days are over...you might say, also not a good look for a woman in her mid fifties. I needed to purchase a whole new wardrobe of grown-up swimwear before we came here...of which I have worn 3 items out of a possible 12.
On Saturday we wanted to get a walk in before the Lions game which was a 10.30am kick off here, so it needed to be fast and dirty to accumulate some cocktail points...! By 8.30am we were passing the bus station on our way up to the new road - a climb that is neither quick nor dirty so Ive absolutely no idea why we did it! Its a painful climb to the top, but I needn't tell you the views are stunning and we took the obligatory selfies and made our way back down. One of our Turkish friends caught sight of us and stopped to offer us a lift. No its fine, we said we are doing this for fun.....his expression was priceless.
We wished we'd walked longer and missed the Lions game in the end....!
On Saturday night we had a few drinks in town and a takeaway from Hunkars.We'd heard a few rumblings about Hunkars this year...not good ones....but our takeaway was fine, albeit more expensive than we remembered. I think Oz Adana probably offers better value for money these days and there are more kebab restaurants than you can shake a stick at...so shop around.
On Sunday we went for a short walk along to Likya Hotel, with a plan to head down to the harbour and along for lunch in Fener. We bumped into Dimitris (AKA Ilhan) who was heading into his newly refurbed area in Rhapsody. We were invited in for a drink and a look around- it looked like a top class spa and has its own Hamnan. We couldnt be happier for him now he is finally doing what he has wanted to do for so long, although we miss him around town.
Our lunch at Fener was the best...I cant remember a seafood salad as good as the one I had here, BH opting for chicken wings which he said melted in his mouth. Two Lals, two beers and a large water followed by my first Fener icecream of the holiday 124tl....I kid you not! The menu doesnt change at night and whilst the decor is not the same as its fancy neighbours at the harbour, the food and service are as good as you get anywhere. Oh and the views are probably the best...
Today we went to the town beach, forgetting that half of Kalkan would also be there for bayram. Luckily we got there early as by lunchtime there wasnt a bed or parasol to be had and the spaces in between were taken up by hundreds of towels...Ive never seen the beach so busy! The cushions have made a welcome return so the beds were super comfy for a change although I'd have gladly occupied a bed without a cushion than lay on a towel on the stones. Many did as they had no option.
As we left the beach at 6pm, it sill looked as busy as it was at lunchtime, with more and more people arriving. The whole town has been so busy over the last couple of days, it was a welcome sight as bars and restaurants filled up with so many Turkish celebrating the end of Ramazam.
It felt like the old days, only without the power cuts and water shortages.
Long may it continue.
NB thanks for the update msr, mystery solved!
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12 new items of swimwear? That is seriously impressive! And why do we buy new each year and only end up wearing the same couple of things??
So nice to hear that you bumped into Dimitris, such a lovely man :)
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A great read K4E. It's not easy to conjure up a blog when, like you, we have really spent most of the time doing absolutely nothing but lazing around the pool. We normally call in at Moonlights at 7.00pm, prior to finding somewhere to eat. We're planning to have a walk into Town today and a spot of lunch down by the harbour and will probably spend the evening at the villa. Judging by the weather forecast it looks as though it is going to get increasingly hot .
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Mmm lunch at Fener. We really missed it in April, so glad it's back and sounds to be as good as ever.
I'm really enjoying your blogs K4E. In fact I'm sure we are due another instalment soon...pleeeasee ;) :)
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We love Fener for brunch, lunch or dinner, but especially at the end of a chilled day on the beach having an icecream and a glass of grape juice watching the boats come back to the harbour!
Totally agree Lizzie, another blog is needed regardless of whether your enjoying yourself too much K4E! :D 8) 8) 8)
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We are at that point in the holiday where I cant decide what's shrinking fastest, our time left here or my clothes!
Well, ok....I can accept that my clothes aren't actually getting smaller, the problem is Im retaining just about everything Im eating and drinking! Although for years I've felt very comfortable blaming Turkish washing powder because that's what we do, right?
One of our friends called last week to say she would be coming to Kalkan very last minute with her new partner, so we immediately started to undo the plans we had made to make new ones in order to spend some time with with them before we left.
This meant on Tuesday, we didn't go to Fethiye and instead we boarded the Falcon Yacht for a day out at sea. When you go down to the Harbour, this super duper vessel looks a tad out of place amongst the regular boats but it was our friends choice so we happily went along with it. Its slightly more expensive than the other boats and the drinks are also pricey, but it was a lovely day - the perfect place to be when Kalkan appears to be in the grip of a heatwave. I got my mud bath and the food was good so all was well with the world.
We decided on cocktails in Fener straight from the boat and Halil made a point of saying we couldn't keep away from the place....and he was right. Lunch, dinner, drinks over the past 3 or 4 days..all roads lead to the Lighthouse.
Dinner that night was a lovely cooked chicken from the Deli, with salad and veggies and BH tucked into some amazing bread from the bakery...as simple as you like but utterly delicious. We are always completely knackered when we come off a boat trip, I can't face an evening out or a massive meal.
The lack of walking/swimming versus the excessive consumption of food and drink does mean that if we were a business we'd be looking for a bail-out right about now. Seeing how no financial institution offers the currency of cocktail points, we knew we had to take some remedial action of our own so yesterday we set out on an epic walk. Over to Kisla via the harbour and the beach, up the track to Komurluk, climbed the 167 steps (I know I counted them...) from Palm Beach to Olympus, up the hill to Patara Prince, down to Kalkan Beach Park, across to Mahal then back up the steps to the incline that takes you out of Kisla. Are we mad..? Maybe! All on the hottest day of the year so far!
As we were climbing those steps to the hill that takes you out of Kisla, BH remarked "We should be 8 stone" I took the opportunity to remind him what we'd consumed over the past 18 days (its how I lost count of the steps....) and didn't let up until we reached Tempa Supermarket. At that point, I think he wanted to strangle me, only stopped by sheer exhaustion and possibly the thought of seeing out his days in a Turkish prison.
We had every intention of going to Paprika last night but neither of us felt like eating very much - not sure if its the heat or restaurant fatigue. The Soup Kitchen was calling...well Spicy Lentil Soup was calling me and after a few drinks in Moonlight we headed off there and back to Haninn.
Today was our last Market shop of the trip so we go armed with a list in order to get everything we need..more spices, green tea and Turkish Delight by the tonne....is there anything heavier than 6 boxes of Turkish delight? I felt as though I was carrying a hod of bricks around the market and the heat at 9.30am was unbelievable. Its like we went to bed a few night ago and woke up in August...feels even hotter than any August I can remember with regular tannoy announcements warning of the temperatures which have soared past 45 degrees these last few days - cant bear to think what that is in old money!
We'd invited our friends over for an afternoon of swimming, chatting, wine and food - curry was their choice from the list BH reeled off to them and we bought our fresh ingredients from the market. We needed some Garam Masala, but our regular spice guy didnt appear to sell it, no problem, he said, I'll make it up for you. I tried to keep an eye on what he was putting into the bag but eventually he was done and shook it to within an inch of its life. Smell..! OMG the aroma was amazing and the curry, with some coconut milk from the deli was a real treat.
Tomorrow it was a choice of Patara or Palm Beach. Given that the heatwave shows no sign of letting up, we opted for Patara. No Palm Beach this year, which is a real heartbreaker for me so BH has promised to make me a cocktail on the beach tomorrow to make up for it.
Will that be sand with your margarita, madam...?
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No Palm Beach this year? Or no Palm Beach for you? Who's checking out our beds? Mind you I doubt it will still be open in October when we go so someone else will claim ownership of the said beds for this year!
Make the most of the time you've got left K4E......enjoy every moment! :laugh:
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How do you muster the energy for your long walks K4E? I enjoy walking but haven't done any this visit as It's far too hot, even in the shade. I know what you mean when you say that the days just seem to evaporate......we're into our last 3 days now and, despite my best efforts to maximise every minute, the hours just fly past. We are giving Moonlights a miss this evening as we have a table booked at Seaport and will have pre-dinner drinks down at the harbour.
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Your really packing your days with fun in the sun K4E, I wouldn't mind risking sand in my Margarita at this moment in time! Thanks for another fab blog! Enjoy :D :D :D :D :D
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I posted recently that following surgery, I no longer look 6 months pregnant...scratch that!
Who knew eating and drinking with wild abandon could cause so much damage? Even with the walking and swimming we do, there's a lot more of me to drag around these Kalkan hills than when we first arrived....which by the way, seems like an age ago!
BH had promised me a cocktail at Patara and I watched him create one, pop it in a plastic bottle, bury it in a ziploc bag of ice and pop it in the freezer. When we get to Patara, he said, I'll dig a hole under the parasol and bury the bag; by late afternoon, your cocktail will be the perfect temperature for drinking. I knew I married him for a reason! My hero.
We arrived at Patara at 9.30am on Friday and it was already hot hot HOT, but the breeze here made it so much more bearable. We chose our beds, all the parasols were already out so we knew it wouldn't be too windy today but cooler than being in Kalkan. As we unpacked the bag and prepped our beds for the day I wondered where my cocktail was....! BH, looked crestfallen...its still in the freezer! At this point I could have thrown a toddler style tantrum, with tears and everything but I took the stoic line. Never mind, these things happen, lets draw a line in the sand (couldn't resist that one) and say no more about it.....then proceeded to mention it at every given opportunity.
At Lunch: Enjoy your beer..if only I had a cocktail waiting for me.
Early afternoon: Ooh look at those people with a cool bag and a bottle of wine, how very civilised.
Many times during the day: I could just go a cocktail now.
To be fair, Patara was the right choice that day, the breeze was perfect and despite the unbearable heat, we felt cool. If we'd been at Palm Beach I would have been sweating like a man eating a vindaloo, lashing myself into the sea at every given opportunity or hiding out in the restaurant drinking cocktails...oops I did it again! Mentioned cocktails!
We had already planned to walk from the beach into Patara Village and maybe have dinner. The walk would do us good and earn more cocktail points (although I hadn't had one obvs....I swear I have cocktail Tourette's!). On the way, a tractor pulled up and the driver jumped out. Patara? Yes but we're walking thanks. He spoke no English, but was offering us a lift in his tractor to the village and even though we politely declined, he wouldn't leave until BH had climbed into the drivers seat as "captain" for a photo...he duly obliged! We laughed so hard the rest of the way, I almost forgot about the missing cocktails......I know, I need to get over it!
Our first time in Patara village...I thought there would be more to it, but where wasn't. Very traditional and quiet...rustic if you will, but I spied Beanies...who sold, you've guessed it! I had three...the first two were protest cocktails and the last one was simply for pleasure. What a lovely place Beanies is..its the PTT with a coffee shop and a bar...selling rather good cocktails! I think this post wins the prize for the amount of times cocktails are mentioned! I'm done now, and be assured I am seeking the professional help I no doubt need as soon as we get home ;D ;D
We considered perhaps staying for a few days in Patara village next year. Olivia in Beanies helped us out with her personal recommendations and I wrote them down with every intention of looking them up the next day. However, I am now sporting no less that 12 new bites...all of them like tennis balls...and could only have got them in Patara. The mosquitos here are of the mean variety.....if prizes were given out for the fiercest mosquitos, Patara would definitley win, by a long chalk. We wont be staying next year!
Yesterday we walked into town by going up to Is Bank and through the back streets...rather than the straightforward route....those all important steps. We had bags, purses, phone covers and wash bags on our list so it would be a cake and coffee day. I had messaged Helen at the Old Town Hotel the day before to ask if there might be gluten free cakes available and she offered me a choice. This is like winning the lottery for a coeliac...you have no idea! The Junction has opened just under Migros and they also advertise GF and vegetarian food...exciting times for those who have to follow restricted diets.
We did our shopping and headed over to the Old Town Hotel...I was beyond excited for my GF cake. A white chocolate and raspberry slice of heaven...I almost cried when I tasted it, it was go good! You're my guinea pig, Helen said and I reflected on the fact that I would undertake that role full time in a heartbeat!
It was 40 degrees Celsius and not even noon.
The rest of the day was spent by the pool and a half-hearted attempt to begin packing. Soon it was time to shower and change for the evening.
Where are you eating tonight asked Muhitdin at Moonlight as we sipped our sundowners. Trio, I replied. Oooh special occasion, he said. It wasnt but maybe it should have been. Our favourite meal of the holiday so far...2 steaks, a beer, 2 glasses of wine, a millionaires cheesecake and a champagne sorbet for 340TL. No complimentary coffees or liqueurs...not even Turkish Delight with the bill but it still shaded it into first place for this holiday.
Today is our last full day and night, and I feel bereft that our trip has already come to an end. I'll post tomorrow and reflect on this visit before I have to bury my iPad deep into my case....in the meantime, I'm concentrating on getting my less than slim body into one of the 40 plus dresses I brought that are basically for a slimmer person...I blame the cocktails!
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What an enjoyable read K4E. Did you manage to retrieve the cocktail from the freezer on your return home? It is our last full day today.......it's gone far too quickly. The heat is quite unbearable today and so I'm looking forward to packing our bags under the cooling air conditioning. I think that we will be having pre-dinner drinks at Bezirgans and probably going to eat at Kaya. Enjoy your last day.
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Oh K4E what a fab post, OH and I have just laughed all the way through it, me reading on the laptop and him on his phone, he was reading a bit ahead and kept laughing telling me snippets before I got to the cocktail bits! Your holiday is coming to an end but thank you so much for sharing it with us all, thoroughly enjoyed reading your blogs! Safe journey home and will look out for your final summing up! :D :D :D
Keith enjoy your last day too, and safe journey home to you both as well. :D :D
J&B
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FYI information:
The Weather Station at Kalamar reported a peak of 42C at 3-4pm yesterday (1 July)
Today (2 July) it was 42C at 2pm.
Sorry - I'm a Weather Bore!
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40 dresses and I think it was 12 swimsuits....... :laugh: :laugh:
Thanks for sharing you lovely holiday with us!
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I can't believe your holiday is coming to an end. :( I am really going to miss your reports and this one was a belter. So funny!
Hope BH is back in the good books by now and it definitely won first prize for the cocktail tourettes!
Thanks so much for sharing your holiday with us and I'm eagerly awaiting your summing up.
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That last day, that last night in Kalkan...always feel so desperately sad to be leaving, I don't really enjoy it.
We packed mostly on Saturday, leaving a few things out for Sunday - including a choice of dresses for me as I was undecided, quelle surprise! A few last minute bits and bobs from town and I wanted to amble about with my camera, as you do! It was far too hot to sunbathe...which by the same token means its also too hot to walk around but BH bought it. We walked down into the old town and I stopped to take a photo of the new bell...the OCD in me cannot reconcile the positioning of the date signage, unless there's something else still to be added. At this point I realised I hadn't put the battery back in the camera after taking it out to charge it so I could take pictures around town. Oh! Brief lecture from BH followed and we made our way down to the front to say goodbye *sniff, sniff* to Osman and Adem before their boats went out for the day. We spied our friends boarding another boat...their 4th boat trip in 10 days. Its just too hot they said and we agreed to come and meet them off the boat for a farewell cocktail in Fener.
Up Cardiac Hill for maybe only the 10th time this holiday but now after arrangements to meet our friends in Fener, we knew it wouldn't be the last. You will think I am bonkers but I loaded the battery into the camera and went straight back out...BH cursing me under his breath. Photos finished with a cm'on David Bailey, I need an Efes. We passed our taxi driver friend, sitting near Kipa for the fourth time, he hadn't moved an inch, except to laugh at us!
The heat was so intense the pool was like a warm bath, but still better than trying to sit out in the blazing sun. For the weather bore, the old fashioned non-scientific thing that has worked perfectly well for centuries was stuck at 45 degrees celsius which means 113 blummin fahrenheit and I'm going with that reading irrespective of weather station readings...whats a few degrees between friends!
After meeting our friends for farewell drinks we headed back up Cardiac for the final time...a real effort after two Long Island Iced Teas I can tell you! After a shower and change of clothes,we headed down to Moonlight for our final sundowners, me in fairly high wedges :o :o. You're brave in those shoes with these pavements a lady said to me, and I agreed with her. What was I thinking? A broken ankle might extend our stay? I managed to get round in one piece and as we were only going as far as Paprika, I felt it was a calculated risk. We had Chateaubriand...absolutely delicious! Haybo and her friend shouted up from the street, having spotted us on the balcony. Lovely to see her and a tad jealous that her stay was just beginning...
On Monday morning, our Enes driver arrived promptly and the sad journey to Dalaman was underway before we could say görüşürüz, "I love you more with every breath, truly madly deeply do"
Final thoughts....
1. We got Netflix on our iPads for the very first time, no idea what's changed but it came in useful when it was too hot to sunbathe.
2. The mosquitos didn't really bother us in Kalkan, very few bites even though we didn't see a mozzie buster in the whole time we were there. Patara certainly made up for it, sadly :P
3. It seemed a bit busier in town, not just because of Bayram, there just seemed to be more people than last year to us and some places seemed to regularly enjoy good patronage whilst others seemed empty. I'm not sure if some places will survive perhaps a third bad season in a row and I do fear for some businesses who may still be struggling.
4. We shopped in every supermarket, big and small, local and national chain, prices weren't much different for most things. I was beyond excited that Migros sold Cadburys Dairy Milk and Carrefour sold GF Bread that didn't require me to sell a kidney to buy and was actually very edible. Also in Carrefour, salted butter! The best wine deals were from the "Off Licence" under Asian Gate and he also delivers Efes by the crate. I stuck to the sugar free still lemonade for my gin mixer, with a little soda water added for fizz, it was delicious. I then found pink grapefruit in the same line, not sekersiz, but with a fresh grapefruit slice in my Bombay this was my favourite rooftop sundowner, by some margin.
5. If you think something will work, because you desperately want it to work then think again. Willing my stick on bras to stay in place because I really really wanted them to is doomed to failure. They fool you into thinking they are doing a half decent job until you walk down the road. Simple as.
6. My favourite place for a cocktail this year was Fener... I might have said Patara Beach but, you know....!
7. I read 6 books, my favourite was A God in Ruins by Kate Atkinson, my least favourite was A Second Life by SJ Watson (bit disappointing after Before I go to Sleep). I wept buckets reading The Memory Book by Rowan Coleman and expected to weep buckets reading After You by JoJo Moyes but it didn't happen.
8. Trio was our favourite restaurant for food, their service isn't as attentive as other places - maybe that's their style - but you cannot fault their grub!
9. We stayed in much more this year, food is very good value if you are self catering and cooking for yourselves. Takeaways (Paket) are plentiful and varied - something for everyone. You can definitely do Kalkan on a limited budget, its all about the choices you make. I've said it before and I make no apologies for saying it again, Fener is excellent for price and quality if you want to eat at the harbour.
10. If you are having your eyebrows threaded, get them done on your first or second day...you know it makes sense!
Thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings....Kalkan is waiting for you, it looks beautiful and its so welcoming. Go forth EK'ers who have yet to arrive...and remember, the forum expects...just sayin!
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Brilliant last post K4E. Who knows we might eventually meet up one day?
Keith can.........enjoy reading K4E's posts whilst.........in Kalkan
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Oh you really did have a wonderful time, can't wait to see some of those photos. Thanks for hints about stick on bras and eyebrows, have not tried either but there's already a first time!
Just to warn you.....we are thinking of June for our Kalkan jaunt next year for a change! :laugh:
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How bittersweet is that final post K4E. I was so eagerly awaiting it and now I've devoured it and it is no more. Your "ramblings" have kept me entertained for nearly 4 weeks and I'm bereft you are home.
Thanks for such entertaining and informative reports. Clapping my hands to read about salted butter in carrefour and thanks for the mixer tips.
4 weeks tomorrow and it will be our turn and I can't wait. Like Babs, I'm looking forward to those pics too.
K4E and Babs in Kalkan next June :o maybe Shirl and I and the boys should tag along too... ;) 8)
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I'm 70 next year in June and so we are also thinking of June next year. It's the only place where I would love to spend my birthday but after spending my 60th there in June and it was so hot not sure what to do?
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Oh K4E what a fab post, only just got around to logging onto EK, and boy was it worth it!! Thank you so much for sharing your holiday with us all.
June 2018 now there's a thought Lizzie, how fab would that be ladies! :D :D :D :D :D
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It would be like a Spice Girls Reunion :laugh: :laugh: Old Spice! Thought I'd say it before anyone else did.
Thanks for your lovely comments - meant to say the new water hammock was fantastic..buy!buy!buy!
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Have booked our flights with Monarch for June next year, Flying out Sunday 24th June and returning Sunday 15th July. Three weeks in our special place including my birthday can't wait. Still got this year to go yet three weeks in October for a change. Just can't wait!
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Great Joycie.....we're planning to do the same! And we've still got this October to look forward to! :laugh: