Kalkan Turkey Forum - EnjoyKalkan.com
Kalkan Discussion => Holiday Reports and Reviews => Topic started by: Rachey on May 26, 2015, 08:46:39 AM
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A quick update - day three of our holiday. One of the many, many things I love about Kalkan is that as soon as we arrive all the stress and worry from our busy working lives melts away immediately. No need to gradually wind down...as soon as we glimpse that view from the D400 we are totally chilled. There is some magic in the Kalkan air.
We're in our Kalkan routine, starting each evening with an Efes (or two) at Yali Bar. Çimırık has been very busy over the winter and the loos are all redone and so much better than before. Our first night is always at Gourmet. We've known Şakir since our very first evening here 11 years ago when he was chef at Coast when it was where Kalamaki now is. Fantastic evening - Halil is back after a year away from Kalkan, so with him, Ibrahim and Hasan they really have a dream team. We also got to meet Şakir's new baby boy Mirza Ali. Reyhan brought him along for us to meet - he was fast asleep but so cute.
Yesterday was cloudy at first so we meandered into the village and picked up a couple of watches from Oscar's. He has tons of new and tempting stock. We had lunch at Seaport which was very good. Last night we went to Avalon, owned by the Salt and Pepper guys. Ibrahim such a lovely guy and the food excellent - garlic bread and a cheese borek complementary pre starter. Then veg borek and hunter borek, followed by steak for OH and sea bass for me. They're hoping to reopen Salt and Pepper in 10 days or so - getting the place ready as soon as the retaining wall is completed and they're given the go ahead.
This morning it's glorious sunshine. Again.
It's a hard life....
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Glad you arrived safely Rachey and are well and truly in Kalkan relaxation mode. I know exactly what you mean by that feeling as you glimpse the view from the D400.
I'm really looking forward to Gourmet too this year, I can't believe we never made it there last year. Hope they still have "who let the chickens out" on the menu. All our youngest wanted was a choclolate avalanche at Gourmet and we promised we would go, but somehow the days ran away with us. Definitely on our to do list this year.
I love how easy it is to settle into a Kalkan routine too. Both OH and myself were only just talking and planning what we are going to do this year and we still have 79 days to go!
Have a lovely holiday and good news about S&P. There is a report on KTLN this morning too about work on the retaining wall. It's sounding promising. :)
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Happy to confirm 'who let the chickens out' is still on the menu! We'll wander down to the harbour soon, we're going to have a drink with Ali on Zeus. Booked to go on the boat trip with him next week. Magical day always.
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Thanks Rachey, that's fab - my mouth is watering in anticipation!
Enjoy your drink with Ali. :-* :)
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Glad your in your Kalkan routine Rachey, know exactly what you mean. Such a lovely feeling isn't it? Enjoy your holiday, sounds fab already! Thanks for posting. :D
J
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Hello Rachey, sooooohhh wish we were there with you.
Keep the place tidy for us, won't you? Look forward to hearing more about your stay as time goes on, thanks for posting. I think folk would appreciate the wonderful food pics on here too...
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ooh yes, I often say, wish it was as easy as facebook or whatsapp to add photos! ;)
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Not a clue how to upload pics using my iPad....beyond my very limited tech knowledge. It was - as others here and on the forum have posted - blowing a hoolie earlier. A large umbrella from the apartment above us was wrenched from its concrete base - the thick metal pole sheared and twisted. It landed on our balcony with a huge thump - thought the place was collapsing! All is calm now - still and warm and quite humid.
Had a wonderful meal at Smyrna last night - next door to Belgins Kitchen and run by Rami. He's such a lovely man. His brother in law Mustafa is looking after guests upstairs and Rami on the door. Delicious Turkish food very reasonably priced. The tavuk kavurma was especially delicious!
About to get ready to head to Yali Bar for our pre dinner libation...where to dine tonight...choices...choices. Love it ;D
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I've posted some help on pictures under the title "Posting Pictures" that may be useful.
It's a bit involved, because you have to upload the pictures somewhere else and then put the address in. The forum doesn't host pictures, it appears.
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And then there was me...with our other far more eloquent bloggers now back home (loved your blogs), I'll try and post until someone else takes up the baton!
Yesterday it was cloudy and rained most of the day - more like early May weather. But it wasn't cold. Perfect day for relaxing and reading and relaxing. The garden looks fresh, the Pomegranate tree in flower, but not as many as last year. I hope there'll lots of fruit for us to pick when we're back in October.
Town is very busy one night, then quiet the next, no rhyme or reason to it that I can gather. Lots and lots of families over for half term - more than I can remember seeing before. The rain eased up around 18:30, so off we went to Yali Bar to get a seat before the FA cup began. Wandering down we noticed that, again, Moonlight was nowhere near as busy as it's been on every previous visit. Not a bar we go to, but with the sadness they've had over the winter I hope all is good with them. It's better now that Mojito bar is no more so no thumping loud music or search beams for them to compete with, just Utopia as ever.
Went to Iso's Kitchen last night - we felt it had lost its sparkle a bit. Lovely meal, but something lacking.
Today there's been cloud, but wall to wall sun since lunchtime and really quite warm. Lots of floating in the pool to cool down my Scottish skin! The clouds are hanging over the mountains again...hoping they'll fade away.
Last night around 10pm there was much hooting of car horns and fireworks going off at the roundabout by the taxi rank. This was the Galatasary fans celebrating their league win. The long faces were the Fenerbahce supporters. Great fun to see. The cats and dogs seemed ok and not phased by all the bangs.
Looking forward to the food festival on Wednesday...hopefully the wall will be finished and the area tidied up. It's a solid job they're doing. But I can't imagine we'll be dining at Salt and Pepper this visit, although Ibrahim was hoping to open later this week. Mind you, we all know how amazingly quickly the Kalkan folk can turn things around...
Will try and post again in a day or so....
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Glad the sun is bck for you Rachey......let's hope those clouds stay over the mountains!
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Looking forward to hearing about the Food Festival on Wednesday, Rachey....!
Enjoy every moment of the sunshine - I think we struggled to get above 13C here today....
Cheers, and thanks for posting!
Antler
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Hey Rachey, thanks for keeping up the blog...its all on you - no pressure :-*
Lets hope the harbour work is completed in time for the Festival on Wednesday and in time for Salt and Pepper to open before you go home. Sometimes the bars are quiet and then the next day busy, and you're right there's no real pattern to it - in Moonlight if its quiet, Muhitidin will tell you it a changeover day :)....even if its not! I don't want to be happy that a business has closed but I wont mourn the loss of Mojito....the laser lights and very LOUD music were at odds with the rest of Kalkan. The other bars felt they needed to crank up the volume to compete which isn't good for anyone.
They sure love their football in Turkey...!
Look forward to hearing from you again, enjoy the rest of your stay and fingers crossed the clouds jog on.
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Yes thanks so much rachey for the continuing reports, I'm really enjoying reading about your holiday and kalkan updates. We never ventured to mojito bar in any of our visits so it's no loss to us either.
Hope the weather keeps fine for you and look forward to your next instalment. :)
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More great reports. Thank you so much. :)
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We were there a couple of years ago when Galatasary won the league, the celebrations were wild all over the town, hanging out car windows and flags etc, great fun. Gave them a burst of "Blue Army" like you do. ;D
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Thanks Rachey, hope the sun is shining for you today, and look forward to hearing about the Food Festival, wish we were there to see it :D :D :D
J
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Love hearing about Kalkan.Thankyou. We're sat on our narrow boat on the Trent and Mersey June 1st and it's blowing a gale. We have put an extra rope on but to no avail
. Have booked our Kalkan holiday for2016 just waiting for the flights. So all you lucky people think of me bouncing up and down on the cut. Liverpool here we com.
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A very quick update as we've done very little other than relax! Yesterday was very warm, Hasim at Yali told us it hit 30 degrees and I can believe it. Town was very quiet last night - very few folk around and all the restaurants struggling to fill more than two or three tables. Quietest night since we've been here. We went to Belgin's Kitchen and it was lovely as always. The three ladies who cook were chatting away - good simple home cooking of the highest quality. Two courses and an Efes each was £12 each. Incredible.
Today it is hot. Blue sky and not a cloud in sight. Did I mention it's hot? I can't imagine the heat of July and August, I'd melt.
Ramadan is about to begin and my thoughts are with all my Muslim friends who will be fasting - and not even drinking water from sunrise to sunset. Hard enough for my Musim pals in Scotland, but here, in this heat? Amazing. So I'll be wishing them all Ramadan Mubarak when it begins.
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Thank you Rachey for continuing to keep us up to date. Happy for you that the weather is improving.
It is good to have reviews of the restaurants. I am trying not to compile my usual list of where to go to eat because it never quite works out like that. Anyone else who starts with a plan and then it all changes when you actually get to Kalkan? Old favourites have to be visited but then it is good to try new places, so much choice! It is a long time since we went to Belgin's kitchen so time for another visit there.
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Interesting to note that Ramadan does not exclude drinking during the day - in fact it, the Qu'ran specifically states that abstinence can be excused for health reasons.
Similarly, those doing physical work, and need to eat to maintain energy, are also allowed to eat.
The impression of otherwise, is down to the teachings.
At least this is what I was told by my Muslim friends!
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Isn't that true of all faiths...? Its down to interpretation and teaching.
Where in the Bible does it say not to eat meat on a Friday or if you say four hail mary's your sin will be forgiven? That is still common pratice in UK.
Back to Rachey's blog. We have often looked at Belgin's menu but never been in becuase I'm not sure I would enjoy eating my food on a cushion on the floor - and by that I mean I would probably spill it all over me. Let alone the trauma of trying to get up once I'm down there :o Do they have tables or is it all ottaman style?
We are determined to try new (for us) places this year. The weather sounds amazing although the forecast doesn't look too clever on EK :( Quite a few friends arriving this week, so perhaps it will pick up in the village. A lot of people do like to leave it until after half term, particularly if their children are grown up and they are not tied to certain holidays...no..? just us?
In terms of sleeps, just 5 for us now...well 4.5 as we are going to a wedding this weekend. I want the next few days to fly by....but I know you won't, Rachey :( Looking forward to heaing about the Food Festival tomorrow.
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Belgin has tables as well as Ottoman seating on the roof terrace I believe.
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Definitely tables at a higher level but sitting on cushions is all part of the fun and most are set up with something to lean back on so quite comfortable......just don't wear heels and a tight/short dress! ;D
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Hey, Rachey, as you can hear, we are loving these updates and waiting for the feedback on Weds nights' festival?!
I know I am sad, but I am not sure where Belgin's Kitchen is? Is it on that road that leads from Sofra, along towards Villa Kismet?
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It's just off the main street in the old town. You walk down to where there's a little 'amphitheatre' on your right and Just Silver on the left. You turn right to go directly down to the harbour. It's on the left on the corner as you walk down. My daughter, son in law and grandson love the atmosphere there. They like to have a pre dinner drink on Ottoman seating on the roof terrace and then move onto a table to eat.
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I think you are referring to Iso's Kitchen, Antler :-*
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Oh yes, so I am, K4E!
Kalkan regular - yes, I've got it. We ate in the restaurant next door, up the hill, and I remember looking slightly down onto their roof terrace and this amazing seating area, which looked very chilled....
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Yes, Belgin's does have tables too. But if I can manage not to spill stuff all over me when sitting on the cushions, I reckon anyone can! I always wear shorts or trousers when we dine there as I am far from elegant plonking myself down and even worse hauling myself back to my feet!
Last night we went back to Ramis new place Smyrna, which is next door to Belgin's. Another wonderful meal - two courses, bottle of rose, and a complementary pudding of creme caramel, ice cream and fruit all for £21 each. OH loved his fillet steak and I had a delicious grilled chicken. So good. As we were dining the near-full moon started to peek out from behind the mountains. All the diners put knife and forks down and starting snapping away with iphones! It was a warm, still evening. As the sun set the sky turned that amazing deep peach fading to lilac then deepest purple...and then the pure midnight blue. Venus and Saturn twinkling away. Magical.
This morning a huge back of heavy clouds is threatening to roll down the mountains, it's almost touching Kordere ( if that's the right name, the highest houses above the D400). Cooler today, so only 23/24. Perfect for the food festival which we'll wander down to in a bit. Blue skies over Kisla and kizitlas so all is good.
K4E, much as I am happy that you'll soon be here, I want the days to lengthen and last cos that means we'll be heading home and counting down the next 3 1/2 months until we come back!
Will post about the food festival later today or tomorrow morning.
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Rachey, your holiday sounds truly fabulous. Just found myself smiling as I am reading your post, and getting a few strange looks through my office window! Looking forward to hearing about the Food Festival, wish we were there!! :) :)
J
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Smyrna sounds lovely and reasonable too. I'll bear that in mind. There seems to be so many new places to visit this year so hope we manage to check a few out.
That sunset sounded amazing, I can't wait be be back to see it for myself again. Really looking forward to hearing about the food festival too. :)
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LOVED your photos on FB of the moon rising - absolutley amazing! What a special moment for everyone who saw it for real - where your pics taken with an iphone? They were so beautiful.
I have real food envy...your choices appear to have all been good ones this trip. The meals have sounded delicious and perfect and I sooooohhh want to be there. I'm like a child waiting for Christmas just now.
Thank you for keeping us updated, your days are so relaxed and chilled and your evenings filled with good food and wine - my perfect Kalkan.
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Thanks for the lovely comments. I avidly read all the blogs when I'm home, so trying to pay back a bit with my witterings! K4E, the moon shots were taken on OH's posh Nikon. My iPhone couldn't capture it well enough. Hoping for a clear night as it should be full moon tonight. We're going to Avalon seeing as Salt and Pepper isn't able to open yet. Should get some fab pics from their terrace.
So, the food festival. Today was overcast but muggy and very warm. We were thankful for the cloud cover as it would have been unbearable in full sun. (skies are blue again now, with just a few clouds behind the mountain). We meandered down about 11:30 ish. Loud sound system playing Turkish tunes and an enthusiastic announcer keeping everyone informed in Turkish and English. Well, he tried to keep everyone informed, but it was rather chaotic and disorganised. Great fun though. Lots of food stalls with all manner of food to try from lots of meze, to whole roast lamb - very popular! The chef from Cafe Vita had intricately carved a watermelon to look like a flower. There were several dancing groups. The first four young lasses and two young lads in traditional garb did a rather sweet sedate dance. Then a group of young kids came out. Girls in peach ballerina length tulle dresses and boys in smart blue trousers and white shirts. They did a couple of dances. I think they were only supposed to do one, but their mothers insisted that they did two. Stage moms the same the world over. Bursting with pride. Quite right too. Then an adult troupe of 8 or so men and same number women. I think they were from Fethiye but not sure. The men were dressed as Ottoman pirates and looked tremendous. Girls in beautiful harem trousers. Stunning. They danced a story which, as far as I could tell ran thus: magnificent pirate men full of bravado and courage, showing off to the women and each other how fabulous and manly they were; girls all quite taken with these macho men; one girl in particular likes one pirate with a rather fabulous (false) moustache; they fall in love and he gives her his dagger as a token of his affection. The girls dance, I assume the Pirates go away. Then, oh no, another pirate hits on the heroine, and worse still, her beloved sees this and thinks she's returning the bounder's affection! She pleads with him, offers his dagger back to him but he rejects her, and forgives his brother, as pirate brothers are brothers forever. Heartbroken...get the tissues ready...our tragic heroine stabs herself to death with her lover's dagger. He sees, but is too late to stop her. Weeping he picks her up and carries her lifeless body away.
It was brilliant and quite moving. The dancing was gorgeous.
After that it all lost its way a bit. The food judging took ages as the jury were presented with each chef's dishes. They must have been bursting at the seams by the time they'd tasted everything! I was surprised it wasn't a blind tasting to ensure no bias or favouritism, but as I said, it was chaotic. The worthy winners were 1st Coriander (chef who was at Ilyada last year also won last year), 2nd Paprika and 3rd Alternatif.
After the medals were handed out we wandered up to Foto Pizza for a cooling Efes at about 3pm. Once we got home it was straight into swimmers and into the pool for a refreshing swim.
We loved the festival, and if you can ever go along to it, do go. More Turkish than tourists wandering about, and visitors from Kas and Fethiye too. Despite my event managing hat getting twitchy ( as there was no event management, for examples, no rubbish bins or bags etc) it was thoroughly enjoyable and a great atmosphere.
Tomorrow, out on Zeus with Ali, weather permitting!
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Great to hear about the Food Festival - sorry not to have been there. Maybe another year ..............
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Thanks Rachey I've been waiting with bated breath for that food festival post and what a fab one it was too. You really captured the essence of Kalkan and I felt like I was there too. That pirate story was brilliant.
Definitely have to try coriander now! :)
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Well that was the post of all posts Rachey, thank you so much, enjoyed reading every word. Sounds like a fabulous day, hopefully one day, we will be in Kalkan to go to the Food Festival too in June. Enjoy the rest of your holiday. :) :D
J
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Oh, wow, Rachey, what a treat!!! Amazing. I was like, on a stage of Shakespeare, and then the line: "After that it all lost its way a bit.." and I was brought down to reality once more....
Thank you so much!
Hope you enjoy the rest of your holiday and enjoy even more fantastic photo shots.
All the the best!
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I've no idea if my interpretation was accurate, but it did remind me of Romeo and Juliet...
One thing I meant to mention - Mojito is back up and running...so far not so loud. We had a fab night at Avalon chatting to couples either side of us and comparing notes...we've all been coming here for years.
We talked about our favourite restaurants and although we had some similar favourites, there were some we didn't agree on. Not that we thought any were bad, just personal preferences. We all agreed that's a good thing! Lovely company on a lovely evening.
The moon didn't rise until quite late on, so no photos tonight. Mind you, we were all too busy chatting!
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Then old festival sounds fab! We were hoping it would have been on while we were there......mind you probably just as well as knowing us we would have done even more damage to our waistlines!! ;D
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I notice the festival was held down the other end of the harbour near Pirat...I take it the work continues at the beach end?
The event manager thing made me smile, dont think I've enjoyed an event for about 20 years for the same reason....gave me palpitations just looking at the photos. But hey, that's Turkey - there's no real H&S with building works, so an event is way down the pecking order. The story was rather beautiful...and sad. But if you give someone a dagger as a gift what can you expect..?
Is Avalon where Escudo used to be...? Trying to work it out. That's what I love abut Kalkan, getting chatting to people on the next table and listening to their Kalkan and comparing it to our Kalkan...good times indeed.
Looking forward to reading your next post, thanks for keeping us up to date
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Avalon is opposite Escudo K4E, fab night again. Work is still going on where the fire was, but looks nearly finished and work is starting at Salt and Pepper to get it up and running again.
Update on the food festival, although it wasn't announced on the day - which is odd- I'm delighted to say that Şakir Çinar of Gourmet was actually equal first. We just met him beaming with his gold medal and plaque on his way to work. We did think it rather odd he didn't get placed on the day, but I guess in the confusion some scores must have been missed or something. So happy for him!
We had a fabulous day on Zeus with Ali. We book it for a private hire so we can pretend to be rich for a day! Sea was quite swelly but all good. Had Turkish breakfast which was fabulous, and then an amazing amount of the most delicious meze for lunch - he's the most wonderful cook. We swam at Kaputas, but too rough to swim to the beach, I think we'd have struggled to get back to the boat as neither of us are particularly strong swimmers. Clouds built up later in the day and we heard the odd rumble of thunder. But it kept dry. A day at sea is always so relaxing.
Tonight we're off to Gourmet - we'll help celebrate his Gold medal!
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Sounds like a lovely day on Zeus, despite the waves. I like the idea of Turkish breakfast and Mezze. Makes a change from the standard meal set on a boat trip. :)