Got back Monday night after another fabulous 11 day holiday in Kalkan. After a bad start with a 4 hour delay flying with Thomsons from Doncaster (due to the Greek air traffic controllers strike we were told) we finally arrived in Dalaman at 5am. Luckily dalamancarrentals had obviously been following our flight and were there waiting with our hire car. Very efficient, clean, tidy and new Fiat Albea and at less than £200 for 11 days, we prefer the convenience of a car rather than paying for airport transfers, taxis etc. They accept payment in sterling or credit card.
We had pre-booked a hotel in Gocek, somewhere we have always intended to visit but never got around to it. Arrived there at 6am desperate for some sleep but were greeted by a couple of noisy cockerels at the back of the hotel - no chance, but hey we're on our way to Kalkan, I was too excited anyway!
Spent a very pleasant morning walking around the marina looking at some huge yachts and wondering if our lottery numbers would come up! Some nice little shops, enjoyed our morning and pleased that we called - would certainly call again perhaps for a meal on our journey home or to stay again if a late flight arrival.
Next stop Fethiye, again somewhere we haven't been. The drive down to the harbour from the D400 was hectic to say the least - traffic weaving all over the place, horns beeping, people opening car doors oblivious to other road users. We were very relieved to get to the harbour with our hire car still intact. Had a quick look around and sat by the fountain with a well-deserved ice-cream. On first impression this wasn't the place for us so we quickly retreated and headed for Kalkan. Each to their own I suppose, maybe we didn't give it long enough, some of you may enjoy the hustle and bustle and I've heard the market and fish market are excellent and well worth a visit.
The rest of our journey was somewhat less eventful other than a few dark clouds and the odd spot of rain on the windscreen - no, this can't be happening! As many people have mentioned, the beauty of arriving during daylight hours is the breathtaking view of Kalkan as you come over the hill, a real thrill and a special moment you never forget.
Sorry folks, this is turning into one of my longer reports - just bear with me as I'm enjoying reliving the memory
Anyway, first 2 nights in Kalkan we were booked into the Allegra Hotel in Komurluk. Stayed there for one night last year and were very impressed. The owner Christine is always on hand and prepares a lovely breakfast set around the fabulous infinity pool overlooking a stunning view of the bay. If any guests require an evening meal, she will prepare an intimate dinner for 2 at a romantic table by the pool, or for more guests the roof terrace is used. Only about 8 rooms which are comfortable and all have balconies facing the bay. If you like peace and quiet, can highly recommend. Booked both these hotels through booking.com but would book direct in future to save the hoteliers the 15% commission charged by the booking agent.
Checked out of the Allegra on Sunday, got in the car and travelled all of 50 metres to our 'home' for the next 8 days - 'Caretta' at Komurluk apartments, thank goodness I can unpack the suitcases at last! Looked at these apartments previously as they always have great reviews. Booked quite late and was lucky enough to squeeze in 8 days between bookings, hence the stop-offs on the way. The apartment was fabulous, with both lounge area and master bedroom overlooking the bay - breathtaking views always at the top of my list of priorities when booking holiday accommodation. One of the highlights of the holiday was sitting on the balcony watching the stunning sunsets, pre-dinner drink in hand and soothing music in the background (favourite chill-out tune this holiday George Michael - Jesus to a Child). Would certainly stay here again, we walked to town every night either along the top service road or down the steps to Palm Beach Club and along the path to the beach - a bit steep and take your torch if it's dark. The road is a bit rough at present but it still only took us about 10 minutes and once the roads are resurfaced it will be a doddle.
We were treated to a night of entertainment from a group of people staying in the White Lodge below. They obviously liked Beatles music and one lady sang along to Strawberry Fields at the top of her voice (not sure if she had been on the pop), if that was you it was very entertaining!
Places visited - not many really, mainly a relaxing holiday (once we finally got to Kalkan).
Patara Beach - always a must for us, although we haven't yet stopped off to look at the ruins (on the list). Chose a good day when it wasn't too windy, just a cooling breeze. We can lay there for hours because we take a couple of lilos to put on top of those uncomfortable plastic sun loungers. The sea is a lovely temperature at this time of year - much warmer than the end of June. Always like to have a walk so far along the beach hand in hand - bless!
Kaputas Beach - very picturesque and another must for us but always hotter than Patara. Hence you may have spotted me flaked out on my trusty lilo at the edge of the sea with waves lapping over me to keep cool. Spent 2 days here, umbrellas 5 lira first time, 7 lira second - perhaps it depends if they like the look of you or not.
Palm Beach Club - This was just below our apartment but happens to be our favourite anyway. OK, I have to admit we went in the car as we didn't fancy the walk back up the hill/steps that particular day. Had morning coffees, large bottle of water, tasty lunch with drinks and sunbeds for the day - 71 lira. As good as ever and a good vantage point for admiring the huge yacht anchored nearby that day. Rumours were that Mel Gibson was on board so I whipped out the binos but alas it wasn't true, my mother in law would have been green with envy if it had been.
The all important restaurants:
Kaya - usually have our first Efes and meal of the holiday here as we are always made to feel very welcome by hosts who have become friends. It is very popular with expats and a great place for a chat with fellow holidaymakers. Had our usual of grilled king prawns - delicious. Also called several times for a chat and a nightcap - lovely people and a very friendly atmosphere.
Nar - Steaks are fantastic here and the hot chocolate fondue cake was the best thing I ate all holiday. Lovely spacious roof terrace where you're not almost sitting on the next table.
Musakka (Harbour) - You may have already read that we were slightly disappointed this time, having raved about it earlier this year. The food was delicious but the service slightly down, perhaps because they were rushed off their feet with it being so popular. We ordered drinks that didn't arrive but were put on the bill. They were very apologetic and mistakes happen so it certainly won't put us off going again.
Ilyada - Somewhere else we always seem to go which started on our first visit to Kalkan 4 years ago. Enjoyable meal and friendly staff who look after us very well plus we always get a beer or two on the house, probably because we are regular visitors - bonus! Comfortable sofas and a great place on the harbour to people watch.
Barahat - Another favourite from earlier this year. Lovely fresh bread made to order by the lady sat at the entrance. Slightly cheaper than some but the same delicious food.
Olive Garden - Had the special of the day, lamb shank which was so tender it fell off the bone. Menu a bit different, complimentary dough balls with chocolate sauce for afters. Reasonable prices.
Gourmet - After recent reviews this was a must but we were very disappointed. Has a Chinese theme running through the menu which made a change. Enjoyed the complimentary sushi bites but thought the starters were a little expensive (soup 15.50 lira as opposed to 8 or 9 in other places). Paul had the Chinese parcels - 3 very small parcels (no trimmings) which was 17.50 lira. He then had the crispy duck which was overcooked - too crispy he said! I had steak but have had far better in Kalkan. I think we were charged 9 lira for a bottle of water, also dearer than most places. Service was lacking and we poured all our own wine/water after the initial service but we were lucky - a young couple sat on the next table had ordered water and wine before their meal, had finished their starters and still no drinks, only when they asked again were the drinks finally brought to the table. Only saving grace was that Nicki Chapman (early pop idol judge) was on the table behind us. Perhaps the staff got wind of this and were concentrating on her table.
Talking of prices, a couple staying at our apartments had a fabulous, reasonably priced meal at one of the restaurants and decided to return 2 or 3 nights later (won't mention it by name as it is only word of mouth). Almost everything on the menu had increased in price from their first visit - wine by about 3 or 4 lira a bottle. Because we were getting a better exhange rate towards the end of the week, it got me wondering if some restaurants have 2 sets of menus which they use according to the rate? Surely they wouldn't change the menu this late in the season. We certainly noticed that Efes had gone up a lira since we left in July - some restaurants now charging 8.
Sandal - Our first time here and one of the best. The night we were there was when the Turkish wedding party were celebrating in the harbour - great spectacle with lasers reflecting off buildings, music, dancing etc. Our meal was exceptional, I had fillet of sole fish on creamy mash with hollandaise sauce, Paul had sea bass with prawns. Prices were very reasonable and it is already on the list for next time. Great views of the harbour.
Sofra - We went here on our very first visit and were really impressed so returned again the next year on a couple of occasions. We haven't been for a couple of years so decided to go back on our last night. So glad we did, really enjoyable meal and excellent service all round. I think sometimes we are guilty of trying all the new restaurants from recommendations etc. and tend to overlook some of the good old ones. Food and wine prices cheaper than many of the other roof terrace restaurants.
Drinking Bars - hic!
Cafe del Mar - favourite chill-out zone, usually have a coffee (with an alcoholic addition) but not had any cake (yet). Usually get some complimentary nibbles - Turkish delight, nuts or fresh melon. Love the Turkish vibe, traditional furnishings and trinkets.
Kleo Bar - Great spot by the beach, sound of the waves - idyllic. Complimentary popcorn which I can't resist but those bits always get stuck between my teeth!
Yali Bar - We sometimes call in here if there is any footie on when we walk by (controversial)! Also a good resting point if walking from the harbour.
Parc Kalkan - Popular with expats, stays open well into the night if you want a late drink.
Finally (phew) to sum up - we have been to Kalkan in September a few times and always thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. This holiday had something a little extra special and was just about perfect in every way. The weather was fantastic - still quite hot during the day but not uncomfortably so, and the sea was warm. Evening temperatures were just right and there was entertainment galore in town which all combined to make it a really unforgettable holiday (but aren't they all - we will be back, again)!
Alison & Paul
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