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Author Topic: Truly, Madly Kalkan  (Read 12251 times)

Offline kalkan4eva

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Truly, Madly Kalkan
« on: June 11, 2017, 06:35:13 AM »
"I want to stand with you on a mountain, I want to bathe with you in the sea. I want to live like this forever, until the sky falls down on me."

Says it all really...by the way, did you sing that first bit?
We left rainy Manchester at 06.30 yesterday and arrived in gorgeous sunny Kalkan at 15.00, probably the fastest we've ever done this journey. Our Monarch flight landed a full 40 mins ahead of schedule and we breezed through passport control and baggage collection (via the duty few shop in Dalaman, naturally....)
Our Enes driver was waiting and I'd swear he was 12 years old...almost weighed the same as my case. I buckled up in the car thinking we'd be in for a hairy ride with a boy racer, but we never once exceeded the speed limit on our smooth transfer. Rounding the corner on the top of the new road there she was.....sigh. In true technicolor glory...beautiful Kalkan.
Its the second year we've opted for these flights and I never want to arrive in the middle of the night again....

It felt strange to pass our usual spot and head up Kalamar Road, we were craning our necks looking over towards the place that would eventually be our home in Kalkan for the next few weeks.

We were greeted very warmly by the folks at Happy Hotel and shown quickly to our room which has magnificent views over Kalamar Bay....wow! After dropping our cases, we headed straight for the pool but got chatting in the bar area to some lovely people....as you do. The clock ticked around to 5pm, so I retired to a sunbed in front of the glass balustrade...let like I was sunbathing on a ledge overlooking the bay...gorgeous. Within seconds I was snoring....our new friends said they hadn't heard me, but they were just being polite.

Of course the best laid plans of not unpacking our cases and using what we had carefully put in our hand luggage and on the top of bags, went to pot when I couldnt find a hairbrush and BH decided to wear something else. I dont even want to think about repacking them tomorrow.

Showered and changed we headed for the bar for an aperitif. The new barman is Onur and he has moved his family to Kalkan from Istanbul....because of terrorism, he said. I want us to live somewhere safe. Where is safe..? Feels like it is here, thats for sure. Turns out Onur is a horse trainer and has won a few races...he showed us photos of him winning a cup a couple of years back. Flat racing....who knew? They are building a new track in Antalya so he may return to his chosen career one day.

Dinner was at Yelken, a short stroll away...a very different first night for us. How lovely is this place? BH opted for the Mexican Steak Burger and I chose Beef medallions...absolutely delicious. With ice cream, an Irish coffee, 3 beers and a gin this feast came to 190tl. How is that possible?

A stroll back to Happy Hotel, a night cap and a chat with more lovely people.

The Happy Hotel is just what the doctor ordered and does what it says on the tin.

Linkback: https://www.enjoykalkan.com/forum/holiday-reports-and-reviews/12/truly-madly-kalkan/13739/
« Last Edit: June 11, 2017, 07:24:43 AM by kalkan4eva »
Better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt :)

Offline Babs

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2017, 06:57:54 AM »
And they're off..........! Enjoy!

Offline RosiB

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2017, 07:37:08 AM »
Great first report! We look straight across to the Happy Hotel (our apt is in the Yelken complex) and I've often wondered what it's like - sounds lovely. Have a great day!

Offline Haybo

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2017, 08:53:27 AM »
There you are., i've been waiting for you to get started......lovely first report....19 sleeps for me!

Offline Lizilu20

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2017, 09:57:15 AM »
'I love you more with every breath truly madly deeply dooooo' ... Of course I'm singing along and what a perfect song to describe kalkan. I'm right there with you in my imagination K4E! How we love the Kalmar area and the yelken bistro. Its usually our local!
Thanks for taking the time to post and of course I'm chomping at the bit, like onur's horse, for more already.  ;D
Have a fabulous holiday both of you and gfet exercising those calf muscles around kalamar!  ;)   

Offline keith

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2017, 07:38:34 PM »
Really good to have a holiday report K4E.......We'll be there next Monday......can't come soon enough.

Keith can..........possibly meet up with K4E........In Kalkan?

Offline Bob & Jayne

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #6 on: June 11, 2017, 07:51:30 PM »
OH K4E what a lovely treat to read your post, sounds like paradise, pardon the pun!! Have an amazing time and we look forward to your next update, and Keith yours too very shortly!  ;) ;).

J&B
« Last Edit: June 11, 2017, 07:53:14 PM by Bob & Jayne »

Offline kalkan4eva

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2017, 06:46:25 AM »
Its another beautiful day in Kalkan.

The sun has not long appeared on the beds near the pool at Happy Hotel and there isnt a cloud in the sky. Have we only been here a day and a half..? I've already slipped into Kalkan mode, already downshifted several gears into a relaxed state with the only stress being where to eat tonight.
Well, there may be a bit of stress packing up later today but we are only going up the road and I'll be glad to be able to unpack properly. Right now, my case looks like an explosion in a dress factory...my careful packing skills destroyed in a moment of panic. Days of precision ironing every frill and seam now seems like a complete waste of time. I'm hoping when I can hang everything up, the creases will drop out naturally.....I'm hoping.

We've loved our little Hotel experience, we loved the Happy Hotel. Its not the most modern or sophisticated that Kalkan has to offer but its clean, the staff are wonderful and the view...well those views are spectacular. We promised ourselves that we wouldnt pass Lizo Pension whilst we are staying in Kalamar and we havent.

Yesterday, after a decent breakfast served over looking Kalamar Bay we went for a walk. Naturally we couldnt go far, but up and down the back streets of Kalamar and down to Kulube and Kalamar Beach Club then back up that tasking hill was enough for our first day. Kalamar Beach Club was empty...but it was only early, we hoped people would be occupying the sunbeds later in the day.

We spent the rest of the day by the pool, making new Kalkan friends and enjoying a lovely lunch here...maybe a couple of glasses of Angora were consumed in the process. The sun shone all day and the factor 30 did its job. Its a lovely long pool so I swam a few lengths to try and undo the angora in the afternoon damage.

In the evening as the sun set over the hill, we had a few aperitifs and a chat with fellow guests then headed off to Cosmopolitan...right on the edge of our self imposed exclusion zone. What a view from here of the town with its twinkling lights and on the plus side, the margaritas were excellent.

Onto The Brothers for our evening meal. A Chefs Chilli Chicken and Jumbo Prawn Platter were our choices whilst we chatted to yet more lovely people...everyone in Kalkan is so nice! Brian from Bury told us the food in The Brothers was lovely but the portions are small and he was right on both counts...but we'd had a fairly decent size late lunch so it was just enough for us. Another couple of beers here and a margarita with our food and the bill was 147tl. Another place we wouldnt have got to if we hadn't been staying in Kalamar..loved it!

We lost our way a bit after turning left at Cafe Vita and ended up back at Yelken...it didn't matter in the slightest. Extra steps mean cocktail points...

Back at Happy Hotel, Onur made a couple of Irish Coffees for our night cap which were delicious....BH's head hit the pillow and he was instantly asleep, the caffeine Im not used to ensured I was awake long enough to finish my first book...The Accident by CL Taylor, a really good read.

Another day awaits us in paradise..."a new beginning, a reason for living, a deeper meaning yeah"

Offline Bob & Jayne

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2017, 10:16:20 AM »
Oh wow! you have certainly brightened up my Monday morning K4E, fab fab fab!! You are certainly packing a lot into your first couple of days, keep up the steps!!  :D :D :D

Offline Babs

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2017, 04:42:14 PM »
Oh I do love a holiday report. You're certainly packing it in......and the walking has started, any sign of Kankles yet? Hope not!
I'll be seriously impressed if you manage to gang all those dresses up!  :laugh:
 

Offline kalkan4eva

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #10 on: June 14, 2017, 02:28:21 PM »
Two whole days without a walk!

This means the calories consumed versus calories expended has hit the danger zone. On Monday we checked out of Happy Hotel and the lovely staff stood on the step and waved us off like family....maybe we are! I loved our little Kalamar adventure; I loved the Happy Hotel where people return year and after year and know each other really well...Its like Hotel Solana in the tv series Benidorm for the middle classes, remarked one of our new friends!

We arrived at our new rental choice and the maid was still cleaning so we unpacked around her...shocked to look out of the window and see our old place completely refurbished and newly painted....well I never. No longer on the rental market as the new owner lives there most of the summer. We got chatting on adjoining roof terraces and he invited us round to see "what he'd done to the place". We could not believe our eyes, it was completely different and in a way we were glad as it would have been quite sad to see it empty and unloved.

Our 5 minute walk into the old town on that first night took us half an hour as we stopped and chatted to friendly familiar faces. BL and Mrs Lizard already here a week and settled into a new spot in their favourite bar. Its always good to see where the waiters and greeters have moved onto and we make our promises to book a table.

Huge hugs from the Moonlight boys and kisses for BH...yes really! Catching up here with some lovely old friends who have already been in Kalkan for 4 weeks with a few more ahead of them...the joys of retiring! BH had a bit of a dodgy tum so we stopped at the Soup Kitchen for two chicken soups and made our first night in town an early one.

Yesterday, I was up with the lark but BH wasnt feeling too good so we gave walking a miss. I did many many laps of the pool, but it doesn't give you quite as many cocktail points... By late afternoon he was feeling better so we had a couple of pre-dinner drinks chez nous and headed into town, bumping into some of our fellow Happy Hotelers on the way. One drink became...well more than one, and we hadn't made plans for dinner. I had visions of rolling back into the Soup Kitchen at midnight, so we exited stage right and headed to Cinar.

Two chicken dishes - one with pesto one with spices, a bottle of angora and the company of the lovely white cat that sits up o the roof - 147tl. Back at the apartment we sat on the roof terrace with metaxa and planned our days ahead.

This morning we walked over to Komurluk via the harbour, calling in to see Osman and Adem and confirm our booking with them for next week. After passing the beach on the footpath over to Komurluk there were maybe 6 or 7 tents formed into a campsite...they looked so out of place and I couldnt help wonder who might be in them. Its a bit of a hike up the hill and down to Palm Beach and I stop regularly and point to nothing in particular just to catch my breath. We strolled down and wandered around the abandoned beach club...who knows what will happen here in the future but right now in its unfinished state its like a blot on the landscape. Last year there was a swimming pool and this has now been filled in, so there must have been some work carried out over the close season. There doesnt appear to have been much building work in Komurluk itself for the first time in many a year...maybe its finally slowing down.

It was a bit late in the day, but staying in Kalamar then BH's upset tum meant we only got round to our Turkish Baths today. Atlantis has had a bit of a make-over but the Haman area remains the same - in case you are wondering. Fabulous as ever, one of the best ways to spend an hour whilst you're here.

Tonight we are planning to go down to the harbour, maybe eat in Seaport. All the new units have been leased now, so we'll take our time and see what they have to offer.

Can you believe we've been here 5 days already...?
« Last Edit: June 14, 2017, 02:33:29 PM by kalkan4eva »

Offline Haybo

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2017, 04:15:54 PM »
Great report! It's a good job you've got so many days left! When i've been there 5 days i'll be thinking about packing! Maybe cross paths in a couple of weeks.

Offline Lizilu20

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #12 on: June 14, 2017, 10:24:11 PM »
Wow 5 days! How fast has that gone?  :o
I think I'd like it at the happy hotel, sounds like a fun place. We've only experienced the pirat before but our livers were protesting after a few days. Every night was party night.  ;D
Say hello to the Lizards from us if you cross paths again and hope you've managed to unpack now. Its awful living out of suitcases. Its actually been nice here today for a change and we managed a BBQ tonight, sat out until 9.30pm, chatting about kalkan and our Summer plans. Can't wait.  :) hope BH is feeling better and look forward to your next installment.  :)

Offline Bob & Jayne

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #13 on: June 17, 2017, 07:21:42 AM »
K4E what a great time your having and certainly sounds like your in the holiday mode already in your first 5 days! Hope BH has fully recovered now. Looking forward to your next instalment.  :D

J&B

Offline Babs

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #14 on: June 17, 2017, 10:46:51 AM »
Sounds as if you're having fun. Don't worry about not walking, I haven't been doing any either and you'd be proud of my kankles.....see Facebook messages!  ;) :laugh:

Offline kalkan4eva

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2017, 01:29:55 PM »
Where did that week go...?

If only time went slowly here, it would be perfect. Even when you're doing absolutely nothing the time flies and suddenly its the 5 o'clock call to prayer which signals the start of Cocktail Hour for us.

On Wednesday we had planned to go to the Harbour to eat, we wandered down and had a cocktail in Jimmys and walked along to see Deniz in Seaport...only Deniz isnt there anymore. He sold up and left, the greeter told us. Where is he now, we asked..? Nowhere. Oh.

We meandered up to Moonlight, our default position in Kalkan, and chatted with our Happy Hotelers who are catching the courtesy bus each night now. We'd already decided to eat in Coriander at this point and they were holding a table for us so we tackled the climb in double quick time, pausing very briefly to say hello to BL and Mrs lizard and meet Alison H and her other half - always lovely to meet another EKer, albeit briefly.

At Coriander, Sakir showed us to our table overlooking Kalkan, twinkling beautiful in the distance. Chicken Fajitas and Pepper Steak, 2 beers, 2 glasses of house wine, a baileys and a brandy 194tl...! Lovely friendly place and great food.

No walk on Thursday of course as its Market Day, so just a short trek up. First stop, our favourite watch lady....just for a battery. Our routine market buys, those lovely sesame coated peanuts, green tea, spices, fruit and veg....oh and the obligatory blag DVD's. The banter is legendary and it wouldnt do to be sensitive..."hey baldy", they shout to BH "we have big sizes"  ;D ;D
On the way out we stop for my watch, all cleaned with a new seal and battery 20tl. "You've changed your hair colour" she says...can you really believe that? well yes I'm embracing the grey, I tell her...but I'm astonished she remembers at all.

We decide to walk into the old town and order some water for the cooler, beers and wine to be delivered from the nearest thing Kalkan has to an off licence. Walking through Kalkan in the day, it looks so beautiful against the turquoise sea. We stopped at Ko.Co, new this year from Korsan, in the space occupied by Black and Gold last year. The homemade lemonade with mint was delicious and they brought some ice cream over "on the house" because its hot and nice to see you back..how lovely! Made on the premises this ice cream was gorgeous...I will be back!

We had planned to see Ibo at Kaptan so today was as good a day as any. Those who are friends with him or follow him on social media will be aware of his angry posts over the past few weeks, including a film of him stomping over his stock of reading sunglasses. A change in the law means he can no longer sell them and he had a week to sell his stock so he chose to destroy, very publically, all those he had left. We bought from him, we always do...although I have more sunglasses than its possible to wear in my lifetime. He will be an opiticians next year...they wont kill me!

On Thursday evening we ate with our dear friends in Gusto. I had stuffed sea bass and BH had fajitas...again! Our friends had sea bass too, with pre-dinner drinks, our bill was 100tl each...who said the harbour is expensive?

Yesterday we had planned a quiet day - a long walk up to the new road and over the bridge to Kiziltas, a brunch of menemen and a lazy day by the pool.

We needed a couple of peppers for the menemen so I volunteered to go over to the greengrocer...taking my time, calling into the Deli first, then extended my trip to Kipa...as you do. Coming up from the roundabout I could see BH, who is universally known as the brownest man in Kalkan, looking distinctly pale...and a mix of angry and relieved to see me - like a parent who has lost a child.

He ushered me quickly back to HanInn whilst around me police with guns were running..in our direction. To say I was alarmed, is an understatement!

Uniformed officials and plain clothes officers and police...all with their weapons drawn running around HanInn was a sight I thought I'd never see. What was it? No-one knew, we were told to stay indoors and lock the doors, which BH ignored to run off and find me..he didnt know what had happened or if I was somehow involved given, I'd only gone for a couple of peppers some 50 minutes earlier and not returned.

After 45 minutes they stopped searching the grounds and one by one the cars left. Mehmet our pool guy couldnt tell us what happened as his English isnt good and our Turkish even worse.
No-one came back and told us when the coast was clear, we just assumed after a couple of hours the pool would be safe for a swim...it was.

Life got back to normal very quickly, a couple of drinks at Cocktail Hour followed by one with BL and Mrs Lizard in their ususal spot, looking relaxed and Kalkanised..coming back, I ask? Of course he replied. We agreed the armed police and Jendarma is actually reassuring in this climate.

Depending on who we spoke to, between one and five (insert a number of your choosing..) burglars had been chased from anywhere between Ortaalan, Kiziltas, Akbel...again you choose. One was definitely in custody but the others (any number between 1 and 4) were still at large. They certainly take theft very seriously here....! If youve been a victim of recent break-ins you can be assured the authorities are not letting it go lightly..at all!

It may have wrong footed us for an hour or two when we weren't sure who they were looking for and in light of the world we live in today, if indeed it was terrorism. Witnessing this reaction to burglars makes you feel that they would be ready to act against anything more serious.

Nothing to see here...move along! Well there's plenty to see actually and its rather beautiful.

« Last Edit: June 17, 2017, 01:48:13 PM by kalkan4eva »

Offline Lizilu20

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #16 on: June 19, 2017, 11:23:13 AM »
Well that was definitely a blog worth waiting for. Oh my word, how scary for you and BH! Good to see that whatever the problem was, it was taken very seriously and  the miscreants hopefully were found and dealt with appropriately.  :o

I can't believe the days are rushing by so quickly. Good for us of course but not for you and the brownest man in Kalkan. I think I'm the reddest Nurse in Nelson today after our glorious weekend of wall to wall sunshine which certainly makes a change here.  ;D

How a laughed at the "hey baldy" comment. My OH gets called Baba all the time which he was fine with until he realised what it meant. He certainly was not happy with being a father figure to 30 odd year old blokes when he was in his early 40's. Now he just takes it as a compliment.  ;D

I'm truly loving your reports K4E. A* for effort and content. Go to the top of the class.  :-*

Offline Bob & Jayne

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2017, 01:55:40 PM »
Yes K4E, you certainly are the Star pupil with your reports.

How frightening for you, imagine you must have been very alarmed! Thank goodness it was all sorted soon enough though. 

Lovely to read you have met up with Mr & Mrs BL! always nice to meet up with EKers isn't it.  The mint lemonade and icecream at the former Black and Gold venue sounds very nice, will have to sample some I am thinking.  Have promised ourselves a trip to Old Town Café this year too, as want to sample the cakes as have heard fab reports about them too!

The heat here today is unbearable today, but having to be at work is not very appealing I am afraid, whereas I imagine the unbearable heat in Paradise is very appealing, especially as Cocktail hour is not far away now for you!!! Lizzie hope you are not melting too much, but won't be long now for us either!  :D :D :D :D :D :D

J&B

« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 05:42:42 PM by Bob & Jayne »

Offline kalkan4eva

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2017, 09:19:50 AM »
Well hello there, Kalkankles....I've been expecting you! What took you so long?

Woke up this morning and there they were at the end of the bed where my slim ankles used to be. My calf pain started yesterday...despite some serious hill climbing for much of the time we've been here....and I knew they wouldnt be far behind. Now, I know tonight when I'm getting ready to go out, my feet will resemble two pieces of pork, stringed and oven ready! But hey, it wouldnt be Kalkan if my feet werent spilling out of my sandals...

On Saturday afternoon we had some lovely new friends we met at the Happy Hotel over for a BBQ which carried on well into the night and way too much alcohol was consumed. They are new to Kalkan, although not new to Turkey and already, they are planning to return next year...another couple falling under the spell of Kalkan. Its a joy to behold!

Sunday's walk should have been a bit subdued as we were a little delicate, shall we say, after the excesses of the previous day! But, no, we went for it! Down to the Med Apartments and along in front of the Likya Estate - love these villas here - making mental notes of the names so I can look them up later and gasp at their rental prices. We headed up to the Regency Hotel, down in front of Korsan Suites and up the track that takes you to the top of the hill between Kalkan and Kalamar. This is a mean mother of a hill but you are rewarded with amazing views over Kalkan and beyond. We trekked ever higher to see if there'd been any progress on the villas Halit had shown us plans for last year. As with the hotel in Kalamar, very little had changed since last year...you still cant see Kalamar from the top and the plots are still pegged out. I'm remain saddened by the loss of green space but I suspect if these villas ever get built their views would be spectacular. Building work really does seem to have come to a halt finally...from the top we could see the unfinished beach club and it just seemed ironic.

On Sunday night we ate in Alternatif...we had steaks, a cocktail, a few beers, wine, ice cream and an Irish coffee...270tl! We had a chat with Mustafa who tells us he is running for Mayor in 2019 and he delivered two baileys on the house. He'll go far that man!

We'd decided to go to Patara yesterday and booked Erzcan, our taxi driver friend, the night before. There's as a bit of a breeze when we left Kalkan but obviously that felt like a force nine gale on the beach....in the UK it would have been given one of those ridiculous names.

Two beds and parasol please...erm no parasols today, said the man with no front teeth. Too dangerous and you might not stay anyway the wind is bad today..very bad! Ok two beds it is...only us and one other foolhardy couple on the beach...and I'm grateful they were far away as we wrestled with the cushions and towels for the beds as I'm sure we would have been their entertainment. Twenty minutes later we collapsed on the beds, laughing so hard we were crying and afraid to move in case our efforts to anchor everything came undone and ended up in the sea...which was red flagged today.

The thing is when you get to Patara, you're pretty much trapped. You either waste your 130tl by asking the taxi to come back for you straight away, you wait for the next bus or, like us, you brazen it out on the beach, digging in with Dunkirk spirit. We dug in. The flag changed from red to yellow and red....think that means be careful, more people arrived, a few defied the no parasol rule but the wind did not let up. All day.

We headed over to the ruins at 4pm and as you would expect, it was beautiful up there, hardly a breeze...couldn't believe we were even in the same place.

Last night we ate in, BH made us a curry and it was gorgeous. We had planned to go to Fethiye today on the bus, but neither of us had the energy for the early bus and we promised ourselves we'd go next week...eek, that will be our last week.

Thing is, everything we need is right here....

"I'll be your hope, I'll be your love, Be everything that you need...."

Offline keith

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Re: Truly, Madly Kalkan
« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2017, 10:11:48 AM »
Another really enjoyable read K4E. We arrived yesterday afternoon and I have to admit that the strong winds came as a blessed relief after the exceptionally hot weather that we had been experiencing in the UK. We woke early to take in the glorious views across the harbour and have just enjoyed our first bit of sunbathing around the pool. Already totally relaxed.


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Last post June 05, 2011, 11:06:04 PM
by clrky501
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Kalkan Bay

Started by tigertim on General Discussion

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Last post August 12, 2010, 11:10:29 PM
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