Turkey – the country where east meets west and wet, soapy flesh meets cold marble slabs.
If you’ve never indulged in a proper Turkish bath, it’s time to shed your clothes and your inhibitions and try it out.
Ritual bathing has been enjoyed all over the Islamic world for centuries, cleanliness being considered especially close to Godliness by Muslims.
(I’ve luxuriated under colourful stained glass domes in Morocco; been swished none-too-gently with birch twigs in Uzbekistan and, on one unforgettable occasion at a natural spa on Lesbos, received an enthusiastic rub down with a loofah by an elderly goat herder…)
From western-style spa experiences in the hotels to more traditional encounters in ‘municipal’ baths you have the opportunity to get in a lather in nearly every Turkish town.
If you venture as far as Istanbul, you could do worse than visit the Cagaloglu Hammami.
Built in 1741 and listed as one of the 1,000 things in the world to see before you die, the baths look like a film set and boast Florence Nightingale, Kaiser Wilhelm and Edward VIII among their clientele.
They will also get you cleaner than you have ever been in your life.
The routine in a Turkish bath is more or less the same wherever you go.
Start off in the steam room where the idea is to relax and sweat out any impurities, pouring water over yourself from time to time.
After a while you will be beckoned on to the marble dais in the centre of the room. In the Cagaloglu, this was by a large woman wearing even larger bloomers.
There you are soaped, sponged, exfoliated (usually with a traditional sisal mitt) and massaged so thoroughly your skin will squeak.
Think you’re clean?
Think again.
You may be appalled at what gets released from your pores.
Dead skin sloughs away like a snake in the moulting season – and no, showering before you go won’t spare your blushes.
Men, I am told, are treated to some heavy duty massaging where joints are cracked and every knot is pummelled into submission.
The cool room is a place to relax afterwards, enjoying a refreshing mint tea before you’re sent on your way – as clean and pink as a newborn baby.
Once you get over the initial awkwardness of being naked with strangers, it’s a totally relaxing experience – and a great way to prepare your skin for that golden Turkish tan.
Just watch out for Greeks bearing loofahs.
