Not as magical

[Lancs lass]

14-28 Aug 2010
Apologies - it's a long one...


Ok, let me start by saying we still had a great holiday, but something was missing this year - well quite a lot was missing actually - including many of the colourful characters and friendly faces that we met in previous years. That lovely feeling you get when people recognise you from 2 years ago had gone, in fact we were only greeted with 'nice to see you again' in places we'd never been to before! So I didn't get that genuine warmth and friendliness right from the start. There could be a few reasons for this - the heat wave taking its toll, it being peak season and busier than we've see it before, but it wasn't the same place we loved. Also, has anybody else been followed around the shops this year like they have thief written on their forehead?! And what is it with locals lobbing stones at people in the sea at the town beach - I'm talking fully grown adults here! Maybe we were hyper-sensitive to anything that wasn't perfect as we were there with my parents for mum's 60th and they'd booked it on our recommendation.


Having stayed at the Samira twice before we thought we may get a warm reception at turkish night, but only one of the waiters recognised us and suggested we have a night out with him & his OH - great we thought, he offered to buy us a bottle of wine but we refused so he said he'd get the 2 blokes a beer - which then appeared on the bill!!! Another waiter that served us all night proceeded to holler across the road at us the day after (and every other night) to look at the Bosphorous menu - no mention of nice to see you last night!


Started off with a few negatives there so on to some highlights…


We stayed at the Sun Elite apartments, fantastic base - just across the road from where the thursday market is. I thought it might be too far up the hill (it was slightly in the heat, but taxi from the harbour was only around 5-10tl). Even though just off the main road the apartments felt so peaceful and private, with great views, especially from the higher floors. Extremely well maintained inside and out with a lovely pool. Omar's Kitchen and IBO Kebab just round the corner and Yali supermarket 5 mins walk.


As ever we had some fab trips booked through Adda. We like to try different ones but enjoyed the Xanthos to Patara canoeing trip so much last time that we did it again. Much larger groups so not quite as personal (in 2008 the guys took us back to Patara village to meet the locals and have a game of volley ball), but still a great day out with a yummy bbq for lunch.


We also did a great boat trip from Kas to Kekova, fantastic day out and great value for money at £25, picked up at 9am and dropped off at 8pm! The sunken city wasn't as great as other ruins we've seen but you stop at the island of Simena which is beautiful. I would have liked to have gone on a boat trip from Kalkan but our first 4 choices were fully booked until the beginning of Sept (why didn't I listen to Antler and book ahead!?) so this trip was a nice alternative.


Our third trip was the jeep safari that takes you to Xanthos, Saklikent and Patara (not forgetting the dreaded carpet factory and it's enthusiastic sales team). A great way to have a whistle-stop tour of all these places if you don't fancy spending a day at each. I'm not too into ruins, but Xanthos was great to have a look round and wasn't over crowded with tourists like many I've been to in Greece and Cyprus. Nice lunch at Saklikent and then a walk up the gorge, so much better than when we went in 2006, when we were waist height in mud. Nice to be able to stroll all the way up (the young boys that make out they are there to help are a hinderance and make getting across the rough bit harder work, we'd been warned about them so knew they'd expect to be paid for even one steadying hand). Beware, you get wet on this trip, there were 3 jeeps in our convoy and you are encouraged to get involved in as many water fights as possible. At least one person was not amused in the slightest (snigger), but the water cools you down from the intense heat and dust clouds. All four of us (including the 60 somethings) went on this trip and we all had a fab day.


Beach clubs - only went to two this time and didn't try any new ones. Both were almost full by the time we got there at about 11.
Mahal - only 4 beds left were in the shade and always had to find waiters to order drinks, but I still love this place just for the view - I could stare out there all day, every day. Nice pontoon to swim out to and kayaks to use, food still as good as previous years - long wait for the boat back as everybody piled out at the same time.
Kalkan Beach Park - struggled to get 4 beds together, mum liked it here because of the walk-in access from the little beach, but I thought it was scruffy and really needs some updating - broken beds, dangerous mats at the waters edge and the pontoon looks really dirty and rusty. Food seemed more expensive than before and half our order went to another table - unfortunately it wasn't the half that had a lump of metal in the pizza!!! Took ages to place our order and get the bill and return boat tickets.


For those that maintain Kalkan hasn't changed, I say visit the old town after midnight when 'the strip' is in full flow! We had a drink at all the newbies - Boaters, Mojito and Ignite but wondered why we'd bothered (didn't make it out later than 2am to give Chocolate a go). This is going to make me sound like an old fogey (I'm only 31 and go clubbing at home), but they really aren't what I like out of my holidays these days and go against how I perceive (or perceived) Kalkan. People, not just teens but 20/30 somethings, half dressed, staggering into walls, throwing up and being generally rowdy and cringe-worthy. I feel sorry for any residents and guests near by because the music competing against each other is awful. Walking along the top road we stood looking at the flashing neons below discussing how we think it's the start of worse to come (sorry but the rose-tinted glasses were well and truly off). I bet those staying at the Pirat didn't get much sleep on saturday night either with the banging club night that was on at Indigo Beach Club!


Other good bits:
Atlantis Wellbeing - mum went here for a turkish bath which she thoroughly enjoyed, 40tl.
Saffer Kuafor - the barbers in the little shed before Moonlight & Utopia, OH and dad came back looking ten years younger after their turkish shaves, no nose hair left untouched and a bargain at around 7tl. OH plucked up the courage to go for a haircut (which actually looked nice) 15tl, included other bits of tarting up and massage.
Just Silver - mum bought a bracelet which needed some links taking out, they made these into a necklace and earrings and they were ready to collect that evening.
The ice creams at the front of Fener Cafe (Lighthouse), only 2.5tl and dipped in yummy chocolate sauce.


A few other moans:
Thomas Cook flights were terrible, delayed 2 hours each way. Outgoing was a nightmare, ran out of food so offered the ready meals that you can buy, ran out of those so most people had to have brekkies even though it was evening. Toilets disgusting and no loo roll. TV didn't work, audio didn't work for first hour and the champers that dad pre-ordered didn't arrive, when he asked they it was ready but no reference of who'd booked it.
Don't buy a drink inside Dalaman, no matter how thirsty - a Coke will set you back 10tl!!!
None of us are ever usually ill on holiday (not even after thai street food), but 3 out of the 4 of us were this time. Nearly everybody we met had tales of stomach cramps, sickness, eye and ear infections - most probably due to dehydration or mild heat stoke I would think.
Had seen the set taxi fares on here, ktln and on posters in Kalkan so decided one afternoon to go to Kaputas (too late to get the dolmus back), the drivers told us the company who did those prices had closed and that it should be 60tl return but they would do it for 35tl - wasn't sure if I was being ripped off so we went to the town beach again instead, now I'm back I see that they have indeed finished the offers.


So there you have it, sorry for the length but wanted to cover the highs and lows (I'll put my eats and drinks review on another report). For those such as East who didn't enjoy their first holiday, all I can say is that if you ever go back, don't go in August, your experience would hopefully be completely different and you'd fall in love with Kalkan! Our holiday funds are now going towards a wedding fund (like they should've been for over a year) so not sure when or if we'll ever be back - but it would be in June or September if we did, when hopefully standards are higher and smiles are plentiful, with lots of that Kalkan magic that leaves you wanting more! :'(

[maryjane]

Dear Lancs lass
 
A very interesting and informative piece.  Well done you!   I am getting slightly apprehensive re. my visit in 17 days time.  I know, and love Kalkan and have been a visitor for several years, and have noticed a difference, not always for the good!  This time it will be 12 months since my last visit (alas), I await with baited breath.   No names, no pack drill (as they would say) - discovered paradise in certain islands many years ago in the Indian Ocean - made the mistake of going back after several years, OH Dear!  Being a business person myself, I understand that one must move ahead, but at what cost?
I wonder where the "new undiscovered, must visit place will be next?"  The age old story - commerce versus sentimentality! 
Commerce always wins - but at what cost?

[lorilou]

Hi Lancs Lass - thanks for your post - packed with useful and considered info...
You are so right - when you introduce people to a place you love, it's hard when it doesn't quite live up to your previous experiences.

It sounds like Kalkan is quite a different place in August - particularly this year with the additional heat. Even in July the tone of holiday reports were quite different... I guess it's hard to keep the Kalkan charm going in all that extra heat.

Also I have heard from a small mainstream travel agent (in my local area) that many customers were offered Kalkan as an alternative holiday when Goldtrail went down - apparently many of the people who were offered Kalkan would never have chosen it as a destination, preferring a more 'commercial' type holiday ... but the flights apparently were silly money ... and whilst they liked Kalkan as a place, they would have preferred somewhere more lively and less expensive - and will return to their preferred resorts next year. 

So perhaps a number of tourists who were finding things expensive and not to their taste put the local people under a bit of strain?

It will be interesting to hear the experiences of the September reporters ...

I cant wait to read your food and drinks report!
Cheers
L

[maryjane]

Hi Lorilou
A good reply, as usual!   I agree with you that in the great scheme of things, perhaps a lot of visitors were disappointed this year, due to circumstances beyond their control!   I would like to think that Kalkan is not marketed as "a must visit" venue, as you so rightly say, there are more commercial venues to visit.  I appreciate we cannot stop the onslaught of popularity, but in moderation would be nice -but not all at once!

[Lancs lass]

Thanks for both of your replies and for being positive despite me mentioning some bad points, I know it's not great to read them - especially when you're looking forward to an upcoming visit.
Maryjane I don't think you have anything to be apprehensive about, I'm sure it was just the bad timing of our holiday. I'm sad and a little angry that we went in August as it has tainted my perception, but you can't really celebrate a special birthday a month later, well you live and learn. I think some of the changes such as the bars were already in place last year so you'll have already seen them whereas it was two years since our last visit, after which was such a relief to have enjoyed it as much as the first and prove those who say 'never go back' wrong!


As you say change is perceived very differently by those making money and those of us who like things as they are. I don't think Kalkan will ever become a mass tourist resort because if its location, in the little valley with the mountain back drop it will hopefully always look stunning. I still loved it's character and charm with the cobbled streets and overhanging bougainvillea and wooden balconies and can't see that changing either. I suppose just by being members of this forum and singing Kalkan's praises we are guilty of making it more popular and drawing attention to it.


Lorilou, I think there may be a lot of truth in what the travel agent said, I didn't mention it in my report for fear of sparking another class debate (I have been accused of being a snob on a few occasions - though not on here  ), but I will say that there was a wider 'variety' of holiday makers this year. That might be why the fishbowls were selling well too (god knows how much they cost when a single cocktail was on average 15-20tl)!!  The last time I sampled one was in Kavos about 10 years ago, lol! 

[lorilou]

Hi Lorilou
A good reply, as usual!   I agree with you that in the great scheme of things, perhaps a lot of visitors were disappointed this year, due to circumstances beyond their control!   I would like to think that Kalkan is not marketed as "a must visit" venue, as you so rightly say, there are more commercial venues to visit.  I appreciate we cannot stop the onslaught of popularity, but in moderation would be nice -but not all at once!

Hi Maryjane - thanks - yes your'e right. Not even Kalkan can fit everyones idea of a great holiday.
Thank heaven!
I spoke to one of the 'displaced' holiday makers myself this morning, quite by chance. She loved the food in the restaurants and found it expensive everywhere, even in the cafes; thought her hotel (being smaller than their usual resort type accommodation) to be dissapointing as it did not offer the range of facilities or activities she and her family are used to.
She also did not realise that the heat they encountered was unusual even for Kalkan, and thought it was far too hot - so would not return on that factor alone ...
I hope, like you, that Kalkan can retain it's friendly, atmosphere. I was saddened to read about nightclubs and late night drunkenness ...
We found Kalkan on recommendation last year - and we hope August was a blip ... Having said that we were regular visitors to Paxos for many years - another piece of paradise - but would we visit in August? - Never! Yet - during the rest of their season, the charm and service is restored.
And my money is on that happening in Kalkan too ...
 

[lorilou]

Ok Lancs Lass - here's where I show my ignorance (and age) - Fishbowl? Please don't tell me this is a cocktail in a huge bowl ...

[Enişte]

I was told that a fishbowl at one of the louder clubs costs 60TL.  That's 15 beers at average price, which would be a quiet night out for BL!

[lorilou]

Seriously - I'd never get up the hill, (or down again for several days) ...

[Lancs lass]

Ok Lancs Lass - here's where I show my ignorance (and age) - Fishbowl? Please don't tell me this is a cocktail in a huge bowl ...

You got it, ha!!! Usually shared between a group but apparently between couples now!

[maryjane]

To all on this thread - well said!    Am now going to pacify my poor goldfish, they were having a good day up to now!
As for being a "snob", I have been accused many times, hell, why be penalised for one's honest opinion.   Democratic society?   Wait for it - if in doubt, go to another "resort".   I will await accusations of being a snob - could not care less, my money is a good as anyone else's - where I choose to spend it is up to me      

[Rockykalamar]

I find " Brits Abroad" destroy every nice place.. with their total ignorance of the culture and traditions of the country they visit! How many brits know about Kemel Ataturk and what he did in 1923! and why the Turkish people have his portrait everywhere? And Ramazan? Wow ! Next year go to Benidorm!

[kalkanchris]

Hi  We are off to Kalakn an he 9th September, it will be our sixth time at this time of year.
I cant believe its the same Kalkan that we love and know so well, we have never seen any one drunk, no crowded streets, no blaring music, no lack of friendly people, no bad service

The reason must have been because it was August Holidays, I cant think of any other reason.I feel sorry for the people who did not see Kalkan at its best, but try next time to go in May, June, Sepember,october, you will see the real Kalkan and its laid back charm and friendly people
I will let you all know what my thought,s are when I get back after the 25th September.

[Kefgirl]

That was all very interesting reading.
Thanks, Lancs lass for a measured, well written, articulate and interesting report (also your restaurant one)
I think lorilou and maryjane have said it all really, but just wanted to add that on holidays, as in life generally, it's "horses for courses". It seems that this year, some horses may have been on the wrong course.
My username may give away the fact that I'm a long standing and regular visitor to Kefalonia, but I wouldn't go for free in August! (that's because a different population go there then)   
  I think lorilou is spot on with the theory about displaced holiday makers having been redirected to Kalkan. This year may have been a blip due to that (Oh, I hope so!)
 
Allanchris, do you arrive or leave on 25th? We arrive on 25th and are hoping for a peaceful and chilled-out time, as per normal. Fingers crossed!   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

[Lancs lass]

Hi KalkanChris, yes it seems this August was very different from the same time in previous years, let alone the quieter months. Thankfully we have been twice before, in June and July, so know of the usual high standards and how laid back and friendly it usually is.


Thanks for that Kefgirl, you and Lorilou have restored my faith in this forum, I was having that 'why did I bother' feeling! As I said at the beginning, still had a great holiday just not comparable to previous years.

[AllanChris]

That was all very interesting reading.
Thanks, Lancs lass for a measured, well written, articulate and interesting report (also your restaurant one)
I think lorilou and maryjane have said it all really, but just wanted to add that on holidays, as in life generally, it's "horses for courses". It seems that this year, some horses may have been on the wrong course.
My username may give away the fact that I'm a long standing and regular visitor to Kefalonia, but I wouldn't go for free in August! (that's because a different population go there then)   
  I think lorilou is spot on with the theory about displaced holiday makers having been redirected to Kalkan. This year may have been a blip due to that (Oh, I hope so!)
 
Allanchris, do you arrive or leave on 25th? We arrive on 25th and are hoping for a peaceful and chilled-out time, as per normal. Fingers crossed!   

Hi Kefgirl, we are arriving on the 23rd October! Cheers, Allan and Chris. 

[maryjane]

Dear Rockykalamar
How right you are - "brits abroad" can taint all of us - mind you some of them in England are doing a pretty good job!
 
I do not regard myself as anything "special", but always go out of my way to research, absorb and learn about the place I am visiting.  The best thing is getting to know the locals, exchanging views and finding out what makes us all "tick".
Have had many a lively conversation with locals in Kalkan, it has always been illuminating and makes me feel somewhat ashamed of our "freeloading society".
I have visited the mausoleum to Ataturk,it was incredibly impressive and somewhat moving, but as you so rightly say, how many "brits abroad" know who he was, or what he did?
I had better get off my high horse now, as I know people on this forum are like minded -  as a matter of interest, I wonder how many of the summer "visitors" will take the time to visit this forum and even join it!  Not many, I bet!

[HolmfirthNicky]

Our first visit many years ago to Turkey was To Olu Deniz, we fell instantly in love with the resort and with Turkey.
We went to Olu for the following 5 or 6 years for our holidays and still loved the resort however when we went last year we were dissapointed to find it was changing, the hotel had expanded and we felt got too big and too noisy and Olu was becoming an extension of Hisaronu. The 'Brit brigade' had taken over, without sounding snobbish, who wanted their fried English breakfasts and chips with everything, and neon lights have crept in so for us it has lost it's charm, this is why we chose Kalkan this year and we fell in love with it and hope it too doesnt change. Let's hope it's just a blip and a case of some holiday makers being sent to the wrong resort after the collapse of Goldtrail. It's such a lovely laid back resort and we can't wait for next June to get back!!

[Babs]

I may still be wearing my rose tinted glasses but.......we have just come back from Kalkan (our 6th visit) and am pleased to report everyting was just as we remembered. We went on 21st August later than we usually go so we may have missed the crowds. The locals were saying it had been unusually hot so maybe that caused some of the problems??

[johnl]

I must admit that i get a little exasperated when i keep reading the "brits abroad" threads.I have seen germans,russians,americans etc,all behaving in ways that could be described as boorish,rude or offensive on holiday (and the french even do it in France).This type of behaviour is not just down to us.My wife and i  have been coming to Kalkan for a number of years and there have been changes,some we like others not,but this is progress.We ,who are visitors or guests,have no right to say who can or cannot visit Kalkan.We may not like the behaviour of some people,but their money ,as well as ours,keeps the restaurants,shops,hotels etc.going.Without change Kalkan would stagnate.We are lucky in that we can visit early or late,others do not have that choice.People work hard for their holidays and there is no exam beforehand testing them on the history of the country they are visiting,they may just want to relax and let their hair down.Just because we,and probably a lot of the members here,enjoythe history and culture of Turkey,does not mean that others cannot visit just for a holiday on the beach or by the pool.See you in 4 weeks when i am sure it will be a little cooler and calmer.